Help me choose a mini lathe

so I looked on ebay, an 8 x 14 (a jacked up 7" mini-lathe) costs just under $600:


for another 100$ you get a "real" 8" lathe, 8" x 16" to be exact:


the better choice is obvious. I take back what I said in my previous post.

of course you could look for a better quality version of the Creworks, if they actually exist. I imagine they do, and you'd easily spend probably double the 750$.

Recently I bought my first guitar. 70$ with the amp LOL. I've learned LOADS of stuff by watching youtube videos non-stop. As the addage goes, you get what you pay for. This is so true when it comes to musical instruments. But I have learned a cheap guitar (barring anything you see on the shelves at Walmart or Target) isn't necessarily a horrid deal. If the basic materials are ok (body and neck) you can replace really everything else and have something that is on part with something that cost several hundred dollars (granted you may wind up spending nearly as much while upgrading). I bought a 2nd guitar! Why? Well nearly every aspect of it screams quality. I paid the same amount of money due to discounts and whatnot. It still might need ample adjustments, perhaps even some upgrades. I look at the more expensive name brand quitars, and it seems virtually all of the time they're using materials that aren't even as good as the first one I bought. A lot of times you're paying a premium for the name.

You can really buy upgraded parts for machine tools. They don't exist, except for chucks basically. With these cheap lathes, if (and it's a big if these days) the basic fit and finish is there, you have something to work with.

You can sometimes find the bargain basement 7 x 12 lathes for 3-400$. I would avoid them. 20 years ago I'm told a 300$ mini lathe wasn't a bad deal at all.
 
I've seen SO many reports of bad results regarding the Vevor mini-lathes. I suggest you look long and hard at all the reviews before you pull the trigger on one -- unless you feel qualified to address the problems you (may) find with what you get.

I bought a 7x12 from Micro-Mark at least 20 years back and it's been a real trooper. Very few problems, pretty much easy to address. These days I wouldn't go with anything smaller than a 7x14 or 16 (depends on what's on sale). The current crop use brushless DC motors with no 2-speed transmission so fewer things to go wrong.

If you have time to wait, browsing CL, NextDoor, or Facebook Marketplace may get you something for a lot less than retail. And often with additional tooling, which can add up fast if you buy new. Getting any lathe is just the start of what you will eventually need to spend so don't discount the swag that comes along for the ride, it could be worth just as much as the lathe itself.
 
you always have the right of return w/ebay, Amazon. It's a matter of accepting what you'll have to when spending comparatively little money.

The thing is with used lathes, first off you need to know how to check them out. You're usually getting a worn bed. You can at least expect to get a good bed with a new lathe. If that turns out to not be the case, send it back.

Certain issues are expected. Too much wrong, just ask for a refund. Or a replacement.
 
Little Machine Shop has a Sieg C2 on sale for $600. I've delt with LMS and they are good outfit.
 
a bunch of accessories with this one:


This is a bit of an older version of the 8 x 16. Perhaps somewhat better quality? Don't know for sure.

OK, this one comes with NYLON GEARS. PASS.
 
so I looked on ebay, an 8 x 14 (a jacked up 7" mini-lathe) costs just under $600:


for another 100$ you get a "real" 8" lathe, 8" x 16" to be exact:


the better choice is obvious. I take back what I said in my previous post.

of course you could look for a better quality version of the Creworks, if they actually exist. I imagine they do, and you'd easily spend probably double the 750$.

Recently I bought my first guitar. 70$ with the amp LOL. I've learned LOADS of stuff by watching youtube videos non-stop. As the addage goes, you get what you pay for. This is so true when it comes to musical instruments. But I have learned a cheap guitar (barring anything you see on the shelves at Walmart or Target) isn't necessarily a horrid deal. If the basic materials are ok (body and neck) you can replace really everything else and have something that is on part with something that cost several hundred dollars (granted you may wind up spending nearly as much while upgrading). I bought a 2nd guitar! Why? Well nearly every aspect of it screams quality. I paid the same amount of money due to discounts and whatnot. It still might need ample adjustments, perhaps even some upgrades. I look at the more expensive name brand quitars, and it seems virtually all of the time they're using materials that aren't even as good as the first one I bought. A lot of times you're paying a premium for the name.

You can really buy upgraded parts for machine tools. They don't exist, except for chucks basically. With these cheap lathes, if (and it's a big if these days) the basic fit and finish is there, you have something to work with.

You can sometimes find the bargain basement 7 x 12 lathes for 3-400$. I would avoid them. 20 years ago I'm told a 300$ mini lathe wasn't a bad deal at all.
This is a great comparison I've made beore. You can buy a cheap guitar, that isn't setup and might not be able to be setup. If you're ust starting out you might decide to work really hard and learn how to set it up yourself and become the next Eric Clapton. But, the more likely outcome is you'll get frustrated and give up before you have a chance to learn the basice.

If you have the time, space and patience to do something other than a mini-lathe you'll be much better off, trust me....

John
 
OK, this one comes with NYLON GEARS. PASS.
Plastic gears are not a bad thing on a machine where there there's no specific allowance provided for crashing or other 'stick in the spokes' condition (conditions, as a beginner, the OP is more likely to face).

Better to replace a plastic gear than have something else more crucial break.
 
You're usually getting a worn bed.
Are you? Not always.

I've had the opportunity to use a Myford ML7 from the early 1960's and a Boxford 'A' model from the early 1970's and neither had ways that showed ways that were worn to any appreciable degree. The Myford was on its fourth model engineer owner and the Boxford spent the first half of its life (to now) at a college and then owned by a small watchmaking business and then its current model engineer owner.

A problematic worn bed is fairly easy to spot with a decent straight-edge (not even a precision one but just a decent quality rule from someone like Starrett or Mitutoyo) and the torch from a smart phone.

There are issues with used lathes that are harder to spot but people on here will advise on what to look depending on the model of lathe.
 
But I have learned a cheap guitar (barring anything you see on the shelves at Walmart or Target) isn't necessarily a horrid deal
A guitar for a complete beginner is not really comparable to a machine tool. The latter has a notably lower threshold where it is so poorly manufactured/QC'd it becomes a bad purchase, verging on a waste of money.

I'm not saying cheap 7 x 14 Chinese lathes are bad purchases but they often require significant work to them to get the potential out of them that is often there. Sometimes with individual instances, the failings are so severe that they are refund/replacement scenarios.

At that point you're often relying on a seller who has already set the bar low on reasonable expectations with the price.
 
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