Help identifying type of steel : HT12110192

maxime.levesque

Registered
Registered
Joined
Sep 1, 2023
Messages
76
I bought a big a pile of scrap cylindrical steel for cheap,

Lots of different grades, and lots of stock rods have the "HT12110192" written on it.

I believe HT stands for heat treatment, I'm wondering if it means heat treatable, i.e. it can be heat treated to gain certain hardness characteristics, or if it has been treated, etc.

I got the pile at an auction, and auctioneers had no useful knowledge (apart from auctioneering...).

Googling the numbers didn't yield much info, and I don't have a hardness tester, but I'm under the impression that cutting with a metal saw takes a bit more time than hot rolled or cold rolled steel.
 
Heat treat certs . They won't identify the material .
 
Heat treat certs . They won't identify the material .

I'm not sure I understand what you mean...

I beleive he means heat treatment certifications, Id-Est a heat treat certification number, tied to a certified heat treatment process.

From where or fro whom or what company I doubt will ever be known.
 
I'm not sure I understand what you mean...
When you purchase material , mostly for Gubmint jobs , the material has to be certified and traceable back to the origin of the material . If the material would ever fail , they can tell the history of the metal . If you buy metal and need certification , this number will come with your purchase .
 
If (IF- It's a big IF....) one were to take the 1211 out of there as maybe being what got heat treated... (Not disagreeing, I think that's a heat treating mark, not a product designation)... Well, IF..... 1211 is a mild steel that work hardens pretty OK and cuts well. Screw machine stock. Bought in rods, pulled through dies (or bought already drawn through dies), and well, old timey screw machines liked it. You couldn't "heat treat" that per se, but carburizing it is common. Crispy on the outside, chewey in the middle.

That said.... That extrapolation is WAY out on a limb, but if that were my hooch of bargain metal, I'd use that not as a guess as to what it is, but as a guide for how to start and what to look for first. I'd hack saw off an inch piece of one end of those (Ends get hot, you've got to go in a little deep to get past "surface hardening" or "case hardening" on the end of a rod). and set after it with the files, scribes, punches, a ball peen hammer etc, whatever else you might think of, and see what I could deduce.

If it's case hardened (including but not limited to carburizing), you'll know it.
If it's through hardened, you'll know it.
If it's a chrome steel, you'll know it.
If it's not hardened at all, you'll know it.

Then when you're done with the files and punches, you can take that hack sawed inch piece, put it on an anvil or the back of a vise and wail the crap out of it with a ball peen hammer. The "round side", the exposed "end of the bar" side, and the fresh cut side. You can categorize that as broadly as the "Under 50 ksi class stuff, or the over 70 ksi class stuff just by comparison to known material.

Then take the long piece you've cut the "slug" off from, put it in the lathe. With a center if you need to. Take the first three, four, five inches (whatever....) and turn it down to half, seven sixteenths, or three eighths of an inch. Whatever you feel comfortable to bend in a vise. Put the bar in a vise, put a pipe about half way over the turned down section, about half way over it. Whatch how it bends- Bends sharp, bends to an arch, bends all at the point where the turned down section meets the parent stock. What way does it bend? Does it bend progressively and continuously, or does the effort required drop off quickly? And (the reason I picked fractional dimensions), how does that compare to a grade 8 bolt, a grade 5 bolt, or an unmarked bolt?

You might never know exactly what it is, but that'll all give you some idea of how much you want to rely on it in structural ways. (Soft, hard, brittle, maleable, work harden, what finish can you get out of it... All the good stuff.

And no, you don't "have" to use a hack saw, but if you're paying atteention to it, that's another good "gut feel analysis" tool...
 
If (IF- It's a big IF....) one were to take the 1211 out of there as maybe being what got heat treated... (Not disagreeing, I think that's a heat treating mark, not a product designation)... Well, IF..... 1211 is a mild steel that work hardens pretty OK and cuts well. Screw machine stock. Bought in rods, pulled through dies (or bought already drawn through dies), and well, old timey screw machines liked it. You couldn't "heat treat" that per se, but carburizing it is common. Crispy on the outside, chewey in the middle.


Interesting you mention screw machines, because the pile of stock metal I bought was in a shop closing auction that had many thread rolling machines, such as these :




The specialty of the shop was producing cold thread rolling.


I will follow you great advice of comparing the inner and outer hardness of the mystery metal !
 
I was under the impression that those marks/numbers were HEAT NUMBERS much like batch numbers, nothing to do with heat treating.
^^^This^^^^

It identifies the mill lot from which the material originated. The specific chemistry for that lot would have been on file at the mill that made the steel. All it tells you at this point is it all has the same composition
 
Back
Top