[How do I?] Hafco AL 330 (Shaoxing CQ 6230A lathe)

[markba633csi]

The jumper straps on the motor terminal block will both be removed, to begin with
Need to see the supply wires to the motor, the labels on them- they may be self-evident how they connect

The "drum switch wires": where are they going at the other end? Why are they not connected to the control box terminal strip?
My feeling is that big orange wire bundle doesn't belong there and was part of some earlier modification-
Questions, questions filling the minds of young people today

 

[SA Raider]

Could we see a view of the entire control box please? And the control panel too if you could
Is this a replacement motor or simply a re-connect of an original one?
Is this drum switch the one that is operated from a apron lever by means of a control shaft? Same question as above: is this re-installing a part or replacing a failed part or something else entirely?

Looks like this is the switch you have in case you needed a replacement
(I think you will find that in the forward position 1 and 2 also connect)

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Thank you all for your patience.

The motor is a new motor, recommended by a local reputable supplier, as a like for like replacement for the old original motor. It does have a circuit breaker provision, which the old motor didn't have (see in the photo of the control box).

The rotary switch is operated from the apron lever control shaft. It is a new one (bought direct out of China) that is identical to the original.

The terminal identification label was loose from the switch when it arrived, and I think I have assumed the wrong switch TDC (and label placement) when doing the conductivity test. If I reverse the TDC and place the label to match the photo you supplied, I get a 1-2 connect on forward (lever down).

See attached photo below for the revised full conductivity test with correct switch TDC, and label position. Also attached photos of control box and control panel.

 

[markba633csi]

OK that orange cable must be a replacement then, because you don't need conductors anywhere near that heavy for the tiny currents
that the apron switch usually carries- those wires are thicker than the incoming power wires- way oversized

Nothing really wrong except it will be difficult to work with. You will need to connect them to the terminal strip; it may be hard to get those huge conductors into the terminal slots. Let me work on finding you a switch connection diagram- I shall return

Motor connect: (straps removed)

Box---- Motor
U1 wht--- U1
V2 brn--- U2
Z1 blk---- V1
Z2 blu---- Z2
You can insert the circuit breaker in line with the motor U1 terminal if you wish, or connect it later

 

[markba633csi]

Show me your control panel also- it will help me zero in on the model

 

[markba633csi]

THE FINAL VERSION: (hopefully)
Box terminal strip: white cable bundle: (connect these after the test below)
7 = Wht= forward signal
13=Blu= reverse signal
5 = Brn= power bus
4 = Blk= KM1 latch signal

Configure the barrel switch: (using post #17 data)
Wht =2
Blu = 4
Brn = 1,3,5
Blk = 6

As a test, check continuity of the wires as follows before you connect the wire bundle to the terminal strip:
Put one probe on Brown and with other probe:
Neutral= continuity to Black
Forward=----- " ---- to White
Reverse=----- " ---- to Blue
That white bundle might have been replaced for a reason- check carefully

 

[SA Raider]

Show me your control panel also- it will help me zero in on the model

Drum switch: Can you recheck:
Neutral 3, 4 connect
In forward 1, 2 connect and 7, 8 connect but pairs are separate
in reverse 5, 6 connect

 

[SA Raider]

Show me your control panel also- it will help me zero in on the model

Drum switch: Can you recheck:
Neutral 3, 4 connect
In forward 1, 2 connect and 7, 8 connect but pairs are separate
in reverse 5, 6 connect

G'day Mark,

I'm a bit rattled at the moment, so please bear with me and I will start again with the rotary switch.

I have double checked connectivity, with a more reliable multi meter. In reference to the photo of my switch below:

Forward (lever down) 1 connects to 2
Reverse (lever up) 3 connects to 4
Neutral (lever in the middle) 7 connects to 8 & 5 connects to 6

I hope this makes more sense to you

Can you please explain what you mean by the 'pairs are separate'

 

[SA Raider]

The jumper straps on the motor terminal block will both be removed, to begin with
Need to see the supply wires to the motor, the labels on them- they may be self-evident how they connect

The "drum switch wires": where are they going at the other end? Why are they not connected to the control box terminal strip?
My feeling is that big orange wire bundle doesn't belong there and was part of some earlier modification-
Questions, questions filling the minds of young people today

I think I have found the original cable for the control box terminal strip to rotary switch (see first photo below). I can remove the orange cable and refit this.

The bottom photo is the supply wires to the motor.

 

[markba633csi]

That other white cable looks like a much better fit, I think.
OK, do you still have the original switch and have you compared that one with your new one? We need to be certain about our hardware
The thing to remember with these switches is that they not only are made in a variety of contact styles, but they also can fail internally and give all sorts of goofy results. The factories eventually changed over to twin microswitches- a much better design

What I said about pairs was referring to the switch that was advertised on Ebay. That one had two pairs of contacts connecting in forward but neither pair connected with the other- you follow? That contact pattern seems to be the most common style but not the only style I'm sure
Anyhow, I am heading off to bed but I'll check in tomorrow- ciao

 

[markba633csi]

Hi I'm back, it's Thursday. I'm editing post #15 to be the final word on the switch hookup.
I'm going to use your switch test results from post #17
Post #13 has the motor hookup info