Got a Price for Florida Workshop Building

Pole barn in Indiana, 7" slab, two walk-in doors, one 10' x 10' garage door, 12' ceiling, 40x56 (2240 sq ft). $56k to the building crew (~$25/sq ft).
I did the site prep, all the wiring including the upgrade to 400A service, framing out interior walls for an office, insulation, drywall, mini-splits, etc. Construction was crew was done in a month, (Feb 2022). I'm just finishing out the interior now. I haven't tracked all the expenses but I'm sure with everything the total cost will be near $50/sq ft. Site prep was expensive as I used a lot of gravel to fill/level the site, home lot is on a hill. The whole thing would count as outrageously expensive if you factor in the cost we paid for the 10 acres to buy the field next to the house that the shop sits on.

12' ceilings works well for me. Good lifting clearance for large machines or for an auto-lift, etc. While 16' would allow a mezzanine, I don't otherwise see any use for above 12' unless you're dealing with tall vehicles (like getting a semi trailer in/out), and I didn't want something too tall vs. the one story house.
 
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This would be 1050 sq ft of covered ground. You should be good for no variance.
I believe the 9000 sq ft covered ground rule is total of all buildings and may even include paved driveways. I'd guess this is based on storm water run-off, thus the credit for having a pond.
 
Thanks for all the help. I'll try to respond.

1.
10 ft ceiling is pretty low. Lifting tall machines and you will be hitting the ceiling. I would go for at least 12ft.

I would like to have more headroom so I could put a loft at the back. I am concerned about the AC cost, however. I believe I'm looking at 23K BTU's right now. Not sure what I should do. I don't want a $700 power bill every month.

My tallest machine is my mill, which is about 6'6" tall, but of course, the head rotates down. Not a problem. After that comes my wood band saw, but it's on a mobile base. I plan to put everything but my lathe on a mobile base. It's a really bad idea to have tools that can't be rolled. My tool chests, welding carts, grinders, and saws all roll, and I'm planning to weld up a rolling workbench and get rid of the one I made from two-by-sixes.

2.
This would be 1050 sq ft of covered ground. You should be good for no variance.

They count the house, the concrete parts of the driveway, and the pool, so I am already over 9000 square feet. I hate that pool. I wanted a house with no pool, but choices were limited. Looking at the figure they claim, you would think I lived in a palace, but it adds up fast. One house, one pool, about 2000 square feet of concrete driveway, and a shop building.

You really have to be a sucker to buy a pool. You will use it like crazy for three months. After that, it's just an energy hog that turns green unless you become a slave to it. The companies that make pool parts and accessories make total garbage that falls apart fast, so you will have lots of repairs. If you don't want to do maintenance and repairs yourself, budget $1500-$2000 per year for someone else to do it.

It will attract freeloading friends and relatives so you get to sponsor barbecues while the kids use the pool as a toilet.

Also, thanks to lawyers like myself, pools are terrible these days. You can't have a diving board if you want insurance. You can't have a slide. And my pool is tiny. It's 32 feet long and 6 feet deep, so what is it good for? My dad had houses with 40-foot pools 8 feet deep, with diving boards. To me, that's the minimum. Anything smaller is a joke and a waste of money. I've only been in the pool once for recreation in 5 years. What a great 15 minutes that was. Other than that, I have only gotten in when the well pump has been offline. The pool makes an okay makeshift bathtub. It can absorb a great deal of soap and shampoo without problems.

I also use it to fill buckets to flush my toilets until the well starts working again.

3.
Let me just copy/paste their email reply… this is for a 30x30 x12’ in Ocala, FL. Received reply yesterday

I would prefer that, too. There are problems with it, however. First, termites. You will have to risk losing the roof structures or pay for a yearly termite contract, and they are not cheap. Second, the shingle roof will dramatically increase the cost of roof repairs and replacements. A metal roof should last as long as the building.

My existing shop is about like the building you posted, and I have to have termite monitoring stations around it. You can't save money by buying your own bait stations because they cost so much. The cost for a new roof would be somewhere over 10K.

4.
i think 6" slab is overkill. i have 5" now with 10k and 25k lifts.

I think you're right. Good idea. Honestly, 4 inches would be fine, but the cost difference is fairly small, so why not 5?

5.
If you haven't been inside a building of the type you are looking at in a Florida summer, you may want to consider insulation.

I can't air condition it without insulation, and using it as a shop without AC is not something I will consider. They said foam would invalidate the warranty, so insulation will be difficult. I have concerns about condensation raining inside the building. That has happened to other people, and I don't want to join them.

6.
Don't you guys get occasional late summer gusts in Florida?

Where I used to live, we hit something like 168 before Andrew tore the measuring apparatus off the top of the National Hurricane Center's building. I am not on the coast now, and storms tend to wither quickly on the way here. Irma knocked a lot of trees down, but it didn't bother my house.

A tornado came through in May, and it topped out at 110, which is pretty lame for a tornado.

The building should be fine, but the stupid trash oaks around it are a concern. It does no good to have a strong building if the trees are weak and heavy.

I contacted my insurance company to find out what standards the building had to meet.

If I keep using my old shop, I have to insulate the roof, add an AC unit, and add a ceiling to reduce the BTU's. I would also have to insulate the folding garage door, which would be cheap and easy. Then I would have to buy a whole new insulated roll-up for the other side. That's $4K.

I have a giant floor fan with blades spanning almost 3 feet. It's okay if you sit right in front of it. Move a little bit to the side, and the sweat starts pouring out.
 
The company that gave me the quote said vertical panels on the sides of the building cost more. Is there any benefit to these things? Also, will 29-gauge panels make me regret buying them, or are they okay?

I would like to have a beam running across the shop with a hoist and trolley attached, but the steel members of the walls look way too weak.

Any tips on insulation would be appreciated. I would love to use spray foam, but I don't want to give up my warranty.

Getting the trees out will be a problem. Anyone can cut them, but I need to have the stumps gone. I don't think a grinder will do it, because it would leave a lot of wood under the ground to rot and cause subsidence. It seems like there are two types of land-clearing companies here. Those that cut and grind, and those that push trees over and rip the stumps out in the process.
 
I used blown-in fiberglass insulation in my walls and attic of the new shop. DIY. 7" in the walls, and about 6" in the attic currently but I intend to double that in the attic. That's on top of the 1" roof and 1/2" walls styrofoam. Cellulose would probably have been a bit cheaper. 24,000btu mini-split does a decent job of keeping the whole thing comfortable on days in the low 90's (I set it to 78). I also run a small 20 pint dehumidifier to keep the air from saturated in the evening when things cool off.
 
I appreciate the help, but steel buildings have no attics and no wall cavities.
 
You are in Ocala as well!?? What company did you get the quote for the building??
 
Mine is 29 gauge metal. Heavy hail is a liability even if you go with 26 gauge (although obviously 26 fairs better). Horizontal vs vertical is likely a matter of having to add cross members to hang the metal on.
I appreciate the help, but steel buildings have no attics and no wall cavities.
I had to frame in between the 8' center posts in a pole barn. Not as easy as spray foam, but if you want anything decent for interior walls you are going to end up putting something up anyway. Vertical run side panels may give you better options for finishing out the interior.
 
I have a 40x60x12 metal building with foam insulation and a 5 ton heat pump. Very easy to heat and cool, even in Texas. I have had 3 buildings with fiberglass insulation before and they are fine in the winter, but almost impossible to cool without the air constantly running.

The vertical is a ridge just somewhere else for the dirt to settle. You don't see that much here.
 
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