Goofs & Blunders You Should Avoid.

When cleaning a fixed gear bicycle drivetrain, do not put your fingers anywhere near the chainring or the sprocket while the rear wheel is in motion. I went through some old photos (not going to post them here) and found ones from my trauma surgery after I had done the aforementioned. Managed to lop a good bit off my index finger.
 
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Mauzinette said:
When cleaning a fixed gear bicycle drivetrain, do not put your fingers anywhere near the chainring or the sprocket while the rear wheel is in motion. I went through some old photos (not going to post them here) and found ones from my trauma surgery after I had done the aforementioned. Managed to lop a good bit off my index finger.
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Been there (didn't lop off my finger)... was riding dirt bikes up at a friends farm. (His bikes). The chain kept slinging off on mine :rolleyes: On one of the fixes, my finger got under, and really hurt like hell. Crushed it pretty good.. it survived, but it was a long time healing...
 
woodchucker said:
Been there (didn't lop off my finger)... was riding dirt bikes up at a friends farm. (His bikes). The chain kept slinging off on mine :rolleyes: On one of the fixes, my finger got under, and really hurt like hell. Crushed it pretty good.. it survived, but it was a long time healing...
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Ouch!

Mine is now a quarter inch shorter.
 
While slitting 304 stainless, I ruined my slitting saw. It presumably got overheated and instantly dulled all the teeth. I had some cutting oil in play and was running at low RPM. Other than flood coolant, how do you avoid this????

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Stainless suffers from work hardening doesn't it...? I haven't worked stainless much but the times I did cut it I found the trick was to take a deeper cut to get under the surface crust. Slow feed induces work hardening. A slitting saw has a lot of teeth soi'm not sure how to deal with that.
 
pinkpanda3310 said:
Stainless suffers from work hardening doesn't it...? I haven't worked stainless much but the times I did cut it I found the trick was to take a deeper cut to get under the surface crust. Slow feed induces work hardening. A slitting saw has a lot of teeth soi'm not sure how to deal with that.
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It was 304SS which is less prone to work hardening than 316. I feel like I fed it too hard and generated heat even at the lower RPM. I am hoping someone with slitting saw experience will school me! What is a good RPM for a 2" saw in 304?
 
rwm said:
It was 304SS which is less prone to work hardening than 316. I feel like I fed it too hard and generated heat even at the lower RPM. I am hoping someone with slitting saw experience will school me! What is a good RPM for a 2" saw in 304?
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I have run it at 450 to 500 with a slow feed rate, I use mist cooling and take the full depth cut for what I need.
 
rwm said:
It was 304SS which is less prone to work hardening than 316. I feel like I fed it too hard and generated heat even at the lower RPM. I am hoping someone with slitting saw experience will school me! What is a good RPM for a 2" saw in 304?
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Slow it way down. Back gear time. Slitting should be a cold process. The job should take more time than careful hand sawing. Ditto for feed rates. This is one mill op where precision needs to be rested in an oak barrel, not rushed.
 
Sounds like my advice was incorrect, apologies. Going by what these guys are saying - slow feed rate with super slow cutting speed and coolant. Everything to keep the heat down. I'll try remember that next time I'm cutting it myself
 
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