Getting from zero to hero?

What would you do?


  • Total voters
    24
It all comes down to what you are willing to spend. Do you have ~25-30k you want/plan to spend? Buy it all now. Most people, even if we can afford to buy everything end up buying one at a time. That makes it harder, especially if you know you eventually want it all. For me, buying nicer, more capable machines one at a time makes more sense than more machines at once at the cost of even a little less capability.

Conventional thinking is that a lathe is the queen of the shop. But if you get a dividing head, you can do a lot of things on a mill that you might otherwise do on a lathe. A dividing head costs ~ 1/5th of a lathe or less, and can probably get you through till you buy the lathe. So that's likely the way I will go. (but I still vacillate). I askedTom from Oxtools what he thought, and I though his response was very telling. He said, "Buy whichever one you get the better deal on first. You're going to want both. Don't pass up a steal on a mill waiting for a lathe, or vice versa."

So it comes down to what do you want to do? What's your largest anticipated project? A lot can be done on a 12x36 lathe. How much more can you do on a 13x40 or 14x40? Probably (except for 4 inches of length) not a whole lot more. But you can do it faster with more aggressive cuts on a heavier machine. Personally, I wouldn't go smaller than a 12x36. I will probably go with the PM 1340GT, since it is hard for me to justify the extra 4k for the 1440... but the foot break, 2 inch bore, extra weight of the 1440 is pretty sweet. Of course, if you want the creme' dela creme' the TL series is hard to beat. Only another $5k... you see how it goes.

For Mills, a large format desktop mill like the PM 833 mill, is very capable, and probably all most people actually need. But it isn't a knee mill and if you plan on larger / heavier projects, a knee mill gives you just a bit larger envelope, more table space and more mass to absorb vibration. PM's 949T are pretty nice, but if you do decide on a knee mill, since you are in California, I would take a strong look at the ACRA mills. I don't have one, but have heard very good things about them, even from people who own PM Mills.

As for welding, it's a much lower price concern. A Lincoln 215MT gives you MIG, stick and DC TIG for about $1500 - much less than your lathe and mills will cost. You can do Aluminum with MIG with pure Argon and the right wire, and MIG is a lot easier to learn than TIG.|

You will want something to cut your stock, and ultimately that will be a band saw. But a portable HF bandsaw can stand you in good stead for at least a little while.
 
I have never tried to do that. When you do a search there is a "get alerts" button in the upper right corner. Do not know how that works. I personally don't like getting notifications. Notifications just clutter up my email inbox.
 
I got my Mill (G0730) and my Lathe (G4003G) at the same time.

I used the mill much more often than the lathe when building my telescope (below) and found the mental processes to use a manual mill more difficult than when using the lathe.

Beautiful scope Mitch. Honestly, I don't have much interest in building a scope from scratch right now, but I do find myself 3d printing various adapters, mounts and other custom bits as well as simple things like extension tubes and what not. I'd wager it would be 50/50 mill vs. lathe, but nothing really large unless I ever made a custom mount for my Celestron EdgeHD 8". I can see myself making a nicer mirror cell for my 12.5" Zambuto than what is stock in my Starmaster ETL, but I really wonder if it would be worth it. Living in San Jose, CA my biggest problem by far is light pollution, not mirror support. Anyways, there are plenty of other, smaller, more reasonable project I can see doing like a fancy tracker for a DSLR for wide field.

It all comes down to what you are willing to spend. Do you have ~25-30k you want/plan to spend? Buy it all now. Most people, even if we can afford to buy everything end up buying one at a time. That makes it harder, especially if you know you eventually want it all. For me, buying nicer, more capable machines one at a time makes more sense than more machines at once at the cost of even a little less capability.

Conventional thinking is that a lathe is the queen of the shop. But if you get a dividing head, you can do a lot of things on a mill that you might otherwise do on a lathe. A dividing head costs ~ 1/5th of a lathe or less, and can probably get you through till you buy the lathe. So that's likely the way I will go. (but I still vacillate). I askedTom from Oxtools what he thought, and I though his response was very telling. He said, "Buy whichever one you get the better deal on first. You're going to want both. Don't pass up a steal on a mill waiting for a lathe, or vice versa."

So it comes down to what do you want to do? What's your largest anticipated project? A lot can be done on a 12x36 lathe. How much more can you do on a 13x40 or 14x40? Probably (except for 4 inches of length) not a whole lot more. But you can do it faster with more aggressive cuts on a heavier machine. Personally, I wouldn't go smaller than a 12x36. I will probably go with the PM 1340GT, since it is hard for me to justify the extra 4k for the 1440... but the foot break, 2 inch bore, extra weight of the 1440 is pretty sweet. Of course, if you want the creme' dela creme' the TL series is hard to beat. Only another $5k... you see how it goes.

For Mills, a large format desktop mill like the PM 833 mill, is very capable, and probably all most people actually need. But it isn't a knee mill and if you plan on larger / heavier projects, a knee mill gives you just a bit larger envelope, more table space and more mass to absorb vibration. PM's 949T are pretty nice, but if you do decide on a knee mill, since you are in California, I would take a strong look at the ACRA mills. I don't have one, but have heard very good things about them, even from people who own PM Mills.

As for welding, it's a much lower price concern. A Lincoln 215MT gives you MIG, stick and DC TIG for about $1500 - much less than your lathe and mills will cost. You can do Aluminum with MIG with pure Argon and the right wire, and MIG is a lot easier to learn than TIG.|

You will want something to cut your stock, and ultimately that will be a band saw. But a portable HF bandsaw can stand you in good stead for at least a little while.

LOL. Yeah so easy to go "just a little bigger" and end up paying nearly 2x as much. I remember when I first started looking at lathes a few years ago I figured "oh the PM-1022 would be really nice!" and then I thought about maybe going big for the PM-1030. LOL. Then I started understanding things better like the importance of weight, how DC motors work at lower RPM, bore size, gear boxes/change gears and more things got more complicated.

It's also a big reason why I haven't pulled the trigger on buying anything because it's taken me a long time to get a sense for what I need and how numbers on a spec sheet translate into capabilities. Things like weight (more is better, but how much is _enough_?), DC vs. AC, geared vs. VFD and how 40" between centers doesn't mean you'll be able to turn something 40" long, but I still don't know if I _need_ 40" or 36 is enough? But I've mentally settled on the 1340GT because "well it's not that much more than the 1236T" and I just can't really imaging stepping up to the 1440. I guess if I ever need something that big at least I figure I'll be a lot more knowledgeable by then and maybe can start looking at used gear.

Sadly there aren't any simple answers. Or the importance of Z clearance on a mill once you add a vise and a chuck or how Y becomes such a limiting factor (and 1" shorter with DRO). And the fact is I don't really have an idea of my upper bound for what I want to do- other than I know I'll never go "pro". This is and will always be a hobby for me. I don't think I'll ever need to mill a custom aluminum airbox for my motorcycle, but I do plan on fully 3d printing one (I currently have a 60% hacked OEM ABS plastic, 30% 3d printed PETG and 10% fiberglass). Something like that would either need to be done on a noticeably larger mill than I have planned or multiple parts.

Honestly, $25-30K sounds like a lot of money. But I'm still young (at least at heart), so its probably like $500-1000/year for the rest of my life. Also my wife and I enclosed the breeze-way between the house and garage to give me that extra 0.5 car of space and ran the 100A circuit (also for electric car charger) and that frankly was more then what I'm budgeting for this right now. (I really wanted a 3 car garage when we bought a house, but sometimes we gotta make compromises right?)
 
First off, let me quote the popular phrase "when all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail". My point is that once you have the tool, you discover so many more uses for it than you imagined before.

Second, get the lathe. You can fake a lot of things that you would do on a mill, you just can't fake lathe work.

Third, watch the Craigslist ads section. I'm constantly posting interesting things and the Bay Area is within my search range. We also have members nearby that might be willing to assist in evaluating a machine. Enabling is really what we do best.

So I'm honestly haven't been watching craigslist religiously to say, but I'd definitely be curious to hear more... what kinds of "interesting" things are you seeing? When I do look I don't see much. Right now a lathe with a short headstock and spider for gunsmithing isn't something I need right now- it's something for "later". Also the 1340GT doesn't have a spider, but I figure that would be a good project. But not swapping change gears every time I do metric threads is a big deal for me since I would be interested in doing a LOT of metric and that seems to preclude a lot of older stuff I see on craigslist while the newer stuff is much larger than I really have space for.
 
Do a basic VFD control or go RPC

VFD I get. Lets you take 240V AC single phase like I have and convert it into 3 phase AC and get variable speed as a bonus. Requires a 3 phase motor, which without VFD would just be a single speed. Apparently some motors are better than others when running variable speed. It's not perfect, because you loose horsepower at low RPM, but HP = torque x RPM and torque at low RPM for AC motors is generally at max as I understand it. I totally get that this can still cause problems for doing large drill cuts in steel for example though.

This was the first I've heard of RPC on this forum. I've since done some searches here on "RPC" and I get a lot of hits which talk about RPC in context of motors, but I'm still confused what it is and how it might be different from a single speed AC motor or VFD driven motor? In my world of computers, RPC stands for "remote procedure call" and I'm pretty sure that's not it. :)
 
The 1340GT (Norton Gear box) have no change gears for imperial threads, but will have change gears to do metric and also for different metric thread pitches. If you want a gear table they have been previous posted or I can send it to you. You need a universal gearbox not to have change gears for both imperial and metric threads, so you would be looking at the ERL-1340, PM-1440TL (RML, TRL versions), Grizzly G0509G, PM-1440GS has one change gear but hasn't been available for many months. You need to give up a few things to be in the price range you want.

Some people have big shops with multiple 3 phase machines and use an RPC, single machine people usually go with a VFD. You use a VFD typically in the 30-90 Hz range with stock motors. Basically you can convert the lathe over to a single belt speed instead of two. Power has never been an issue, just use a lower gear and rev up the VFD.

You make your own spider for the 11340/1440GT.
1340GT Spider and tach sensor.jpg
Spider Indicator Large and Small bars.jpg
 
@mksj : Yep, I was aware of the Norton change gears for metric. 3 different settings for pretty much everything under the sun and many of the settings support overlapping thread values. It's not perfect, but as you say, I'd have to step up to something bigger/more expensive to avoid it- although not sure what the ERL-1340 is? Sounds like it was something PM used to sell? But yeah, have to draw the line somewhere.

Also, the Norton gearbox / spindle is probably only good for 2000RPM (maybe a bit more for short duration?) since it is a splash oil system instead of a bath it sounds like? From what I gather though, that's probably fine 99% of the time. I mean, don't get me wrong- I'd like the nicest/best options I can get... just that size and cost matter a lot. I'll never turn a profit on these machines, but that doesn't mean I need to maximize my losses. :)

I've seen a few designs for spiders for various PM lathes. Some of them even seem like something a newbie might even try. :) I assume that is a hall sensor to measure spindle speed?
 
The ERL-1340 is a Sunmaster lathe - https://www.sunmaster-cnc.com/pro-erl-series-all-gear-head-lathe.html
I think Matt can import them for you. But I haven't found a published price for one anywhere. They all want you to call for price (lord I hate that!) So, if you find out how much they are, please let me know. I expect it to be more than the 1340GT, but if is less than the 1440GT, I will seriousely look at it. 1440GT is too much for me to justify (hell, the 1340GT probably SHOULD be more than I can justify... but isn't! :grin: ) But with a 9 inch bed width, heavier mass and universal gear box, I might be willing to strech a bit more for the ERL when the time comes...
 
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