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BRIAN
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Welcome aboard Eddy, Enjoy the ride.
With the combustion chambers cut The problems really start, from now on everything has a definite position and angle in the head.
The next job is to drill the spark plug hole, head's # 1 2 3 and 5 are the same but #4 has the plug on the opposite side to keep it away from the oil drain when the engine is stationary.
Brian.
With the combustion chambers cut The problems really start, from now on everything has a definite position and angle in the head.
The next job is to drill the spark plug hole, head's # 1 2 3 and 5 are the same but #4 has the plug on the opposite side to keep it away from the oil drain when the engine is stationary.
Brian.
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BRIAN
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So on with the work, The mill is now set to 45° and the R T set so the hole to be drilled is in half way between the studs and exactly in the top corner of the combustion chamber.
Then drill all 5 heads.
Flip he heads over on the jig and counter bore.
Using the same settings tap the hole.
Slowly slowly Brian.
Then drill all 5 heads.
Flip he heads over on the jig and counter bore.
Using the same settings tap the hole.
Slowly slowly Brian.
B
BRIAN
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Next stage is to drill --bore and counter bore the holes for the valve cages.
First one side then turn the R T 180° to do the other.
If you look closely you can see the one in the front has the spark plug on the opposite side.
Bronze for the cages is on order so I will probably continue with the inlet and exhaust tracts . the inlet is simple but the exhaust comes at a angle,
just have to trust the jig and the I gage's, I will probably go over the drawing 2 or 3 times as well.
Brian.
First one side then turn the R T 180° to do the other.
If you look closely you can see the one in the front has the spark plug on the opposite side.
Bronze for the cages is on order so I will probably continue with the inlet and exhaust tracts . the inlet is simple but the exhaust comes at a angle,
just have to trust the jig and the I gage's, I will probably go over the drawing 2 or 3 times as well.
Brian.
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B
BRIAN
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The hone arrived so the plan switched back to the cylinders.
On to the mill to bring them to size.
Two things to note in this photograph One is the hole in the jig for swarf clearance and the other is the hose clip I use around the
boring head , this is to balance the offset of the tool ,I can create wobble on a small machine .
Next was a quick rub with the hone to remove most of the tool marks.
Finally the base flange was reduced and the seat for the head gasket machined all that remains now is to give them a polish and hot oil black.
The blank was 1.5 Kg at the start, the finished cylinder weighs 300g.
Brian.
On to the mill to bring them to size.
Two things to note in this photograph One is the hole in the jig for swarf clearance and the other is the hose clip I use around the
boring head , this is to balance the offset of the tool ,I can create wobble on a small machine .
Next was a quick rub with the hone to remove most of the tool marks.
Finally the base flange was reduced and the seat for the head gasket machined all that remains now is to give them a polish and hot oil black.
The blank was 1.5 Kg at the start, the finished cylinder weighs 300g.
Brian.
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BRIAN
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Thank you to all who have posted likes it's nice to know someone's watching
In this town if you don't pick olives you don't exist??
But the local blacksmith is a nice chap.
I have the only lathe in town . 7x12 top of the heap, Wow!!
Thanks again Brian.
In this town if you don't pick olives you don't exist??
But the local blacksmith is a nice chap.
I have the only lathe in town . 7x12 top of the heap, Wow!!
Thanks again Brian.
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2013
- Messages
- 285
Hey Brian! I see the bore is 25mm and stroke is 28mm on your engine. I'm still trying to get a mental picture of how big the completed engine will be. What will be the overall diameter of a circle drawn around the tops of the cylinder heads when the engine is assembled?
Dave
I guess you haven't found out, like I haven't found out, that you can't make anything with a 3 in 1 or with a 7 x 12 import lathe! People keep telling me that you can't....
Dave
I guess you haven't found out, like I haven't found out, that you can't make anything with a 3 in 1 or with a 7 x 12 import lathe! People keep telling me that you can't....
B
BRIAN
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Hi Dave the engine will be just over 12" diameter when complete.
Somewhere along the development I reduced the stroke to 26mm , and increased the rod length to
reduce the angularity of the links,
I think the problem with the small lathe is that THEY can't .
Brian.
Somewhere along the development I reduced the stroke to 26mm , and increased the rod length to
reduce the angularity of the links,
I think the problem with the small lathe is that THEY can't .
Brian.
B
BRIAN
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Hi all try this it's the first of the series. I hope to improve the quality as we go along.
Enjoy Brian.
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2013
- Messages
- 4,119
And likely never tried. But they're 'experts' on the subject, just ask them...
I've said this before, and I'll say it again: I'd MUCH rather ask questions/seek advice of hobbyists making complex mechanisms on smaller machines than any guy who works in a production shop, on production machines, worrying about cycle times and tool longevity whilst spitting out the same part over and over again. Apples and oranges...
EDIT: Oh...and I tried you vid but it says I have to sign in to view it?