First time ever turning

Wd40 works great for cutting on aluminum, similar to kerosene. I also use it to clean greasy parts. Smells better than kerosene. If not more expensive.
 
So when I got my lathe, there was only one tool holder. I picked up a straight one on Epay and took someones advice about centering the tool to the center of the work. Took me a few tries, but I made this from one of the Tubealcain vids. This will help me center my tooling.

Thanks for the help!

CENTERING TOOL 002.jpg CENTERING TOOL 003.jpg
 
Tried to make a small baseball bat for my 8 yr old for the last few days. He wants it to beat up trolls :dunno:, but took me 6 trys and 3 pieces of stock. I need to get my tail stock working so I can hold the work.

BAT 002.jpg
 
The three inserts on the left are most likely Sandvik small part turning finishing inserts. If you look at the top of the insert it will give you an idea of the geometry of a chip breaker. The more aggressive, the stingier the material. Aluminum and stainless usually have crazier designs. Cast iron will sometimes be simple or no chip break at all. If you are sharpening or grinding your own tools, you have to give almost as much attention to the chip break as you give the cutting edge. Taylor grind the tool to the materal that it will be cutting.

By the way, nice job on the bat.

This is a link to the inserts that you have

http://www2.coromant.sandvik.com/coromant/pdf/smallparts/catalogue_04_2/inch/029-034.pdf
 
A different way to help determine proper tool height is to gently sandwich a 6 inch scale between the tool and the work piece at the 3 in. mark. If the top of the scale is closer to you than the bottom, your tool is low. If the top of the scale is farther away from you than the bottom, you tool is too high. The goal is to get the scale perpendicular to the top of the compound.
 
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