First time ever turning

Good start.I do have one suggestion in post #12 if that is the motor that runs your lathe I would cover it with someting think "cut up cardboard box".Chips and cutting oil inside the motor are not a good thing as it tends to let the magic smoke escape.
Here is a tip my uncle taught me to set up your tool bit.Chuck up a dead center in your 3 jaw then set your tool to the point.Then back up the cross feed and move tour tail stock up and extend the ram and mark a small index mark on the side of the ram.
Have fun makeing chips.
PLEASE REMBER SHOP RULE NUMBER ONE NEVER LEAVE THE CHUCK KEY IN THE CHUCK .
**************just saying**************Gator************************
 
Hi Vince
Last December I bought an Atlas lathe from a local gentleman. It looked very clean, with little abuse over it's life. I noted that a few things needed addressing, like the belts for the spindle needed to be replaced.
Once I got it home I discovered that the headstock had to be dis-assembled to change the belts. So I dove in.
Now to the chase. Once I started to take the machine apart I discovered that there was a lot of crud packed into the teeth of all the gears & the lead screw.
After I cleaned all the gears, half nut, lead screw, & other stuff, I was amazed at how much mud, crud, swarf was in the pan afterward.

Once the machine was re-assembled & tuned up, I noticed that the half nut lever went down another 20+ degrees when engaged!

Moral of the story:
You might want to take the apron & lead screw off the machine & clean and re-oil them. Using the carriage drive with crudded up parts will cause a lot of wear on them, and will cause the half nut to dis-engage under load (as it is not fully engaged).
Servicing the machine is also a very good way to get to know it very well. Cozy, so to speak.

Long winded, I know, but got to the point.

Have fun with it!!

Ray


A foolish faith in authority is the worst enemy of truth.
- Einstein
 
Grumpy is dead right about the chuck key. It wouldn,t hurt to put a washer and a spring on it so it will remove itself if you turn loose of it. That will definately improve shop safety because I can tell you a thrown key will go a long way before it breaks some glass or something else. Don't ask how I know....
Bob
 
Vince, i think Gator gave you a good tip on setting your tool bit on center. I often take a 6" scale and hold it perpendicular to work piece and ease tool bit against it. When it shows to be in a vertical position, then your're on center. Happy chipmaking, and yes, please watch that chuck wrench. Sounds like you've learned the #1 rule in the shop! Arky
 
Didnt have time much to work with the lathe today but did a litytle. I cleaned the half nut, man the junk in there, you guys were right. It only stops feeding just about 4 inches from the head stock. Ill look into it more next week.

I did up the speed. ALOT less chatter cleaner chips flew further, and hotter :scared: but a nice finish on the Alum and the cold rolled. I dont know if I wanna see how fast this thing will go!

Now a few things to reply to on earlier posts.

I never thought of using the key stock, and do enjoy learning the grinding. Its like the guy said about the cleaning of the lathe, you learn how it works. You get a better feel for it.

Id like to "make" something, using some directions. Like turn down .25 by .50 ect to gain some understanding and knowlage of the math on my guages, ect.

NX :rofl: I have been bitten by the bug. My wife is happy Ill spend more time in the shop! She likes it when Im out of her hair :rofl:


Ill be out of work for the rest of the winter so as I do some part time work, ill be learning this trade / hobby. Ill be expanding my shop another 12 feet so Ill be busy. As I go ill post some pics. Ive spent the last 3 months saving spindle shafts spacers ect from the mower shop I work at to turn in this lathe.

Thanks everyone for your input. I have a spot for my chuck key, its next to the switch, so if I dont see it, hopfully I wont turn it on and see how manny times it will fly around before it breaks something, BOB :nono:
 
Vince
Have read all the posts and only One came close to what I think is the Problem. GrumpyGator mentioned "CUTTING OIL" getting into the motor. My Guess is THAT was smimmed over. Forget about all the angle, grinding etc. etc. stuff till you get some CUTTING OIL. You have never seen TubalCain use WD40, I don't believe. If worst comes to worst go in the kitchen and get you some Crisco(Lard), Olive Oil or Ace Hdwe. and get some Threading Oil. Many have Cutting Oils - Enco, McMaster-Carr etc., and you don't need to pay big money for good stuff. A quart from McMaster-Carr will cost around 25 - 30 bucks total and last you a Lifetime...
Everybody's seen the cartoon of the little boy & girl looking in their shorts, the Caption is: "There IS a Difference!" True in Lubricating Oil & Cutting Oil also..

PS: If you have WD40 on the shelf - Leave it There! Unless of course you like the smell then use it as a Deoderizer...

Luck
Charlie

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Charlie

I have oil, same as I use on my drill press, Im good thank you.

I havent used WD40 in about 10 yrs.
 
The 3 on the left are carbide inserts. They fit in a holder and are used for turning in place of high speed steel, or brazed carbide. Jumps4 had a recent post about making holders for that exact type (or very similar type).

The 3 on the right look like small boring bars, but it's hard to be sure based on the angle.

WD-40 works GREAT on aluminum by the way. But don't use it on steel, it's not gonna cut it...

:rofl: see what I did there ;)
 
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