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Finally, my TH 42 is home!
- Thread starter rfw_1968
- Start date
- Joined
- May 4, 2013
- Messages
- 249
Hello there,
I appears, from what I can see of the motor in the very first pic, that your motor is a 110/220 vac Capacitor start, Induction run motor. This type of motor will NOT have brushes. The fact that the motor started, means that the capacitor is/was working, and the windings are good. The reason that it stopped is more difficult.
Did it grind slowly to a stop, like over the course of a minute or so? Or was it more rapid? Was the motor hot to the touch anywhere after it stopped? I am half inclined to say, without a lot of information, that the bearings might be junk, and are simply bound up.
Post a photo of the motor with its nameplate information to give us more information.
Basic electric motor troubleshooting. Eliminate the simple things first.
The first thing to check, is the wiring connections. Make sure that they are all tight, corrosion free, and making contact. Be sure to check the entire circuit, switches, disconnects, fuses, even the plug at the end of the cord.
MAKE SURE you UNPLUG the machine BEFORE checking these connections!! Electricity KILLS!! If you are not comfortable, find a friend or professional who is.
Disconnect the motor from the drive train. Turn the motor on and see if the problem persists. If it does, then we have eliminated the rest of the lathe mechanically, and we can dive deeper into the electrical. If it does NOT, then the problem is mechanical, and you can then begin troubleshooting the mechanics.
Try these things first, and post your results.
-Cody
I appears, from what I can see of the motor in the very first pic, that your motor is a 110/220 vac Capacitor start, Induction run motor. This type of motor will NOT have brushes. The fact that the motor started, means that the capacitor is/was working, and the windings are good. The reason that it stopped is more difficult.
Did it grind slowly to a stop, like over the course of a minute or so? Or was it more rapid? Was the motor hot to the touch anywhere after it stopped? I am half inclined to say, without a lot of information, that the bearings might be junk, and are simply bound up.
Post a photo of the motor with its nameplate information to give us more information.
Basic electric motor troubleshooting. Eliminate the simple things first.
The first thing to check, is the wiring connections. Make sure that they are all tight, corrosion free, and making contact. Be sure to check the entire circuit, switches, disconnects, fuses, even the plug at the end of the cord.
MAKE SURE you UNPLUG the machine BEFORE checking these connections!! Electricity KILLS!! If you are not comfortable, find a friend or professional who is.
Disconnect the motor from the drive train. Turn the motor on and see if the problem persists. If it does, then we have eliminated the rest of the lathe mechanically, and we can dive deeper into the electrical. If it does NOT, then the problem is mechanical, and you can then begin troubleshooting the mechanics.
Try these things first, and post your results.
-Cody
You are all correct, it is an a/c motor. Almost all of my electrical experience is with d.c. and I didn't know there was that much of a difference. As you can see from the pic, I got the cover open. I assume the centrifugal switch is the assembly showing between the coils and the casing. It does not seem to be binding but I will clean and oil it to be sure. One of the capacitor wires popped off with very little stress so that may have been the culprit all along. As for the bearings, I'm inclined to think that they are good because the shaft spins freely by hand. When I first turned it on it ran without hesitation. It was after the 30 second mark or so that it began slowing down. It didn't take long (maybe 15 seconds) for it to come to a stop and buzz. Initial attempts to restart it resulted in more buzzing but no movement. After a couple of minutes, it started right up. I shut it down right away and left it alone.
I'll do the things I mentioned and post the results. Thanks for all of the advice.
By the way davidh, I'm not from one of those families that have been here since the 1800's. My wife brought me here but she is only a first generation yooper. In spite of that, I love it here and proudly proclaim myself a transplanted yooper.
I'll do the things I mentioned and post the results. Thanks for all of the advice.
By the way davidh, I'm not from one of those families that have been here since the 1800's. My wife brought me here but she is only a first generation yooper. In spite of that, I love it here and proudly proclaim myself a transplanted yooper.
I re-soldered the loose wire (which had come off of the centrifugal switch) and put the motor back together. She purrs like a kitten now. Thank you all for the tips. In the process I replaced the wires for the master power switch that had been previously removed.
After a couple of insanely busy months I finally found time to get back to my lathe. I got it all assembled in my new house and tried using it for the first time tonight. I should add that it was my first time using any metal lathe so I'm sure I made plenty of mistakes. My concern is that I popped the circuit breaker numerous times. I am wondering if the problem is my technique, the fact that the breaker is only 20 amp, or somewhere in between. The only scrap stock I could find (since I just moved) was a short piece of steel gas pipe and that might not be the most forgiving medium to work on. I did get some improvement by adjusting the speed and experimenting with different cutters and angles but the breaker was still blowing. I would appreciate any thoughts you may have.
- Joined
- Nov 16, 2012
- Messages
- 5,596
I had a TH42 that had a 1HP motor and even under difficult cutting conditions, it never tripped a breaker. With it uplugged, is it difficult to spin the top idler pulley by hand? I'm thinking three things... 1) The machine is semi seized-up. 2) The motor is a very high horsepower and blowing your ckt. 3) The motor or wiring has some kind of short.
Ray
Ray
I can't seem to get a good picture to turn out so I'll just relay the info on the data plate.
volts 110 / 220
H.P. 1/2
Cycles 60
phase 1
amp 8 / 4
r.p.m. 1725
The circuit breaker is a 20 amp. I played with it a bit after posting last night and the last time it popped the breaker was after I had finished making the cut and backed the tool away from the work.
volts 110 / 220
H.P. 1/2
Cycles 60
phase 1
amp 8 / 4
r.p.m. 1725
The circuit breaker is a 20 amp. I played with it a bit after posting last night and the last time it popped the breaker was after I had finished making the cut and backed the tool away from the work.