Feedback on Bolton Metal Lathe

[whitmore]

I appreciate all the feedback, it has allowed me to rule the Bolton out. Threading will be a huge requirement of what I plan to build.

[ this lathe hasn't a quickchange gear feature]

But, would you be cutting a wide range of different threads? After setting up a particular thread pitch, you don't need to
change it for male and female parts, so quickchange gears might not matter much. It's the changeover from one
thread pitch to another that can be somewhat annoying (if it were happening more than once or twice a day).

 

[CDarby67]

Whitemore - so, what you are saying is "If you are all ways cutting the same thread pitch / TPI (i.e. 42) then the gear swap is a "one-time" change regardless of internal vs external threading and diameter of i.d. or o.d. Correct?

Hmmm, that might lead me back to consider this lathe.

Thanks,
Clint

 

[markba633csi]

That's right Clint, it's just the threads per inch (TPI) that matters.
It's very handy to have both 3 and 4 jaw chucks plus a faceplate and a steady rest.... you should want all those things to come with the lathe because they are more expensive to buy individually later
Not sure what the Bolton comes with
Mark

 

[mksj]

But the same holds for feeds, you need to change the gears for different feed rates, also going from threading to feeding. So if you are sizing stock to thread, you need to be in the feed range, then switch to the specific thread pitch. Each gear pitch and feed rate requires different set of change gears. I didn't care switching gears from imperial to metric, and now have a universal gearbox (no change gears), but I frequently do both metric and imperial threading so it was a hassle. It does not have separate feed and leads screws. Also you are very limited with the bolt on chucks as to available chucks, vs the standard D1-4 camlock which gives you a wide range of chucks. You can pick up a D1-4 4J independent at very reasonable costs. The Bolton does not have the ability to add an outboard spider for holding longer stock, as there is no extension of the spindle under the belt cover on the Bolton. I would compare more closely between it and the PM 1228VF-LB, much less gear changes, 2 Hp variable speed are a big plus. Quality will be much better, there are extensive reviews on this model. I have been using a 1340 lathe for 6+ years and can't remember doing anything over 24" between centers.

 

[mikey]

Clint, what is your budget? Keep in mind that most lathes cannot be upgraded. I mean that if it doesn't come with a quick change gear box, a separate saddle drive shaft or adequate rigidity then these cannot be added later. If you want to start off with a good lathe then you have to buy it that way. I know you can buy cheaper lathes and trade up but you usually will not recover your costs on a Chinese lathe so why lose the money in the first place.

What I'm trying to get at is to do some homework and learn which features are really important to have and make sure that the lathe you buy has those features. You may not understand enough about lathes to understand how important they are but if you are diligent and make a list, you'll sort it out. I'll start your list off:

• Camlock spindle: important because it is a solid, secure mount that allows for running in reverse and just about every manufacturer of both quality and cheap chucks makes chucks to fit them. In contrast, most cheap Chinese lathes have either a threaded or stud mounted system that is a pain to use and good chucks do not directly fit.
• Quick change gear box: desirable because changing speeds, feed and threading options is a twist of the handle or knob away. Change gear lathes are actually quite versatile and will cut more threads than a QCGB lathe will but it is a slight hassle to have to change gears for everything. Not a deal breaker but important to me.
• Separate saddle drive shaft: I prefer this to using the leadscrew or a key in the leadscrew to drive the saddle. Much more robust and wear-resistant, and most have a slipper clutch in case of a crash.
• Adequate spindle bore size: match to your needs but the bigger, the better.
• Hardened and ground spindle, precision tapered spindle bearings with a stated accuracy rating: Most Chinese lathes will say they use precision bearings but ... really? They do not state the guaranteed run out on the spindle so how do you know?
• Hardened and ground gear train: For me, important for longevity, accuracy and reduced noise.
• Adequate HP: on a 12" lathe, 2HP is adequate, less is not.
• Is a change gear set available? Even with a QCGB, you will need to do other threads at some point and a lathe is not complete without a full change gear set. Whichever lathe you buy, buy this, too.

This is just off the top of my head and I'm rushing to do this before running for an appointment but this will get you started. Ask the guys and they will tell you much more about this. If I had to buy a new lathe today, with my personal needs in mind, I would buy a PM 1236T.

 

[SteveZarecki]

Was wondering what you decided CDarby67? I myself have been scouring the internet trying to find the best hobby lathe/mill for my "retirement gift". Always loved precision metal work but never had the opportunity to pursue until now.

 

[shotgun choker]

I have a 13x40 Bolton, with no customer service or help with a problem. Bolton tells me parts are no longer available for the machine I have, so I'm left with hoping PM or Grizzly can supply parts for the machine I have. I have a part that needs replaced I've just been waiting on the right time to contact PM or Grizzly.

 

[Mitch Alsup]

Head this::

Clint, what is your budget? Keep in mind that most lathes cannot be upgraded. I mean that if it doesn't come with a quick change gear box, a separate saddle drive shaft or adequate rigidity then these cannot be added later. If you want to start off with a good lathe then you have to buy it that way. I know you can buy cheaper lathes and trade up but you usually will not recover your costs on a Chinese lathe so why lose the money in the first place.

What I'm trying to get at is to do some homework and learn which features are really important to have and make sure that the lathe you buy has those features. You may not understand enough about lathes to understand how important they are but if you are diligent and make a list, you'll sort it out. I'll start your list off:

• Camlock spindle: important because it is a solid, secure mount that allows for running in reverse and just about every manufacturer of both quality and cheap chucks makes chucks to fit them. In contrast, most cheap Chinese lathes have either a threaded or stud mounted system that is a pain to use and good chucks do not directly fit.
• Quick change gear box: desirable because changing speeds, feed and threading options is a twist of the handle or knob away. Change gear lathes are actually quite versatile and will cut more threads than a QCGB lathe will but it is a slight hassle to have to change gears for everything. Not a deal breaker but important to me.
• Separate saddle drive shaft: I prefer this to using the leadscrew or a key in the leadscrew to drive the saddle. Much more robust and wear-resistant, and most have a slipper clutch in case of a crash.
• Adequate spindle bore size: match to your needs but the bigger, the better.
• Hardened and ground spindle, precision tapered spindle bearings with a stated accuracy rating: Most Chinese lathes will say they use precision bearings but ... really? They do not state the guaranteed run out on the spindle so how do you know?
• Hardened and ground gear train: For me, important for longevity, accuracy and reduced noise.
• Adequate HP: on a 12" lathe, 2HP is adequate, less is not.
• Is a change gear set available? Even with a QCGB, you will need to do other threads at some point and a lathe is not complete without a full change gear set. Whichever lathe you buy, buy this, too.

This is just off the top of my head and I'm rushing to do this before running for an appointment but this will get you started. Ask the guys and they will tell you much more about this. If I had to buy a new lathe today, with my personal needs in mind, I would buy a PM 1236T.

I change the chuck at least once a day,
I change spindle speeds about every 20 minutes or so
I change feed directions about every 5 minutes
I love my G4003G lathe,

 

[rzw0wr]

Well, If you haven't purchased a lathe yet NEVER buy a Bolton.
Bolton is part of Toolots.
Customer service is not existent and parts are not available for about any lathe.

Buy anything BUT Bolton.
BTW, rpm speed id very limited.

 

[SteveZarecki]

I have not bought one yet. I'm still researching and find forums like this one very informative. I am seriously considering a Precision Matthews with all the good things I hear about them. When I think I have a lather I want to buy, I find ways to talk myself out of it. I do this so that I can objectively make my decision and not regret later. I thank you all who have taken the time to express your opinions abot your lathes, good and bad, so that people like me can be well informed.