Facing tool keeps leaving .0005 to .001 lines down the part.

Take the vise off the table and tram the entire width of the bed . Get it as close as possible . BP's have approx a 9 " bed width . If you get it to within .0005 you shouldn't have much of a mismatch with a 2 inch cutter . In other words , make a larger diameter sweep if this makes sense .
 
Yep it does make sense. Now to figure out how to tram my mill. Is that usually done with the gibs on the vertical column? Sorry for all the n00b questions but this is all new to me and super fun too!
 
There are several threads on tramming a mill. Video's online too. The exact technique depends on the type of mill you have. Tell us what mill you have and you will get suggestions on the different ways to tram your mill.
 
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turningwheels said:
Yep it does make sense. Now to figure out how to tram my mill. Is that usually done with the gibs on the vertical column? Sorry for all the n00b questions but this is all new to me and super fun too!
Click to expand...
You really need to tell us what kind of a mill you have. Several people in the thread (including me) assumed that you had a bridgeport (or clone) where the head both tilts side-to-side and nods front-to-back. So it is easy to get out of tram (and almost as easy to tram it back in). If your mill head is not intended to tilt, then any tilt you have will be harder to remove. Show us your mill! :)
 
Thank you guys, I really appreciate your help and suggestions! I have a Grizzly G0619. https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-6-x-21-1-HP-Mill-Drill/G0619. Brand new about a month old. I would love to know how tram this thing. You know, tell it to quit nodding at me in that creepy way...
FYI, when I got the Facing tool, it worked beautifully with multiple passes and no discernible deviations besides tool marks. smooth as glass.
 
I don’t think that was the issue. The website doesn’t show how the column attaches to the base. Can you post a picture of that connection?
 
That pic on p32 does the trick. Fairly typical, from what I gather. Most common approach is to shim under the base at the bolts. Better is to shim or install jacking screws from the top side at each bolt (effectively an adjustable shim) and then, once trammed, inject epoxy into the gap so that the shims aren’t the only points of contact.
 
So I did a very unscientific (nod test?). Basically measuring from z axis on the front side up and down this piece that is about as square as I can get. I couldn't get it clamped down though, hence the unscientific results. I saw a .0015 movement in 5 inches. Going along the X axis, I saw a .0005 graduation along the whole table. So Once I can figure out how to clamp my piece down, I am not convinced it is out of total whack.
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Man, I tell you as being a newb myself, edge technologies tramming tool made it SO MUCH EASIER. Worth every penny.
Tram tool
 
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