Euro Style edge finder.. any with imperial sizes?

Dabbler said:
@ddicky and I showed you where to get an imperial - quality made - edge finder. As you said, no wonder things are going downhill...
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I have that. I am looking for the euro style. When I see them on utube, they appear better to me. I see the movement better.
I guess I'll have to order one of the metric ones and grind it to imperial.
All the ones I've seen are metric.
 
woodchucker said:
I have that. I am looking for the euro style. When I see them on utube, they appear better to me. I see the movement better.
I guess I'll have to order one of the metric ones and grind it to imperial.
All the ones I've seen are metric.
Click to expand...
What does one search for? I've only used the "normal" ones, and sometimes they don't work that well - there seems to be a delay to kick out. This happens (to me) about 15% of the time, enough to give me some real heartburn.

Not sure that I care if it is metric, a single R8 collet isn't that expensive. But it would be far better if it were imperial...
 
WobblyHand said:
What does one search for? I've only used the "normal" ones, and sometimes they don't work that well - there seems to be a delay to kick out. This happens (to me) about 15% of the time, enough to give me some real heartburn.

Not sure that I care if it is metric, a single R8 collet isn't that expensive. But it would be far better if it were imperial...
Click to expand...
I usually bump it 3 times and take the average....
 
WobblyHand said:
What does one search for? I've only used the "normal" ones, and sometimes they don't work that well - there seems to be a delay to kick out. This happens (to me) about 15% of the time, enough to give me some real heartburn.

Not sure that I care if it is metric, a single R8 collet isn't that expensive. But it would be far better if it were imperial...
Click to expand...
I think it's the large diameter of the mating surfaces, it shows up real well. I don't have R8, I have MT2, so I have a choice of 3/8 or 1/2.. I would probably grind to 3/8 if the spring is not that large. And the small tip I would grind to .2

I do like the wiggler's ability, but as I mentioned, it can be dangerous, and sometimes hard to get to calm down.
 
woodchucker said:
I am looking for the euro style
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The tessa ones are about the same as the euro style, except the in euro ones, they grind the shaft down to 10mm.

Unless you lap the mating surfaces yourself, the cheap euro style from fleabay will give you late kick out. I've fixed 2 of them for friends. If you get a good one from Germany, prepare to pay about 100 euros. -- and they are still metric.

WobblyHand said:
there seems to be a delay to kick out.
Click to expand...

verbotenwhisky said:
I usually bump it 3 times and take the average....
Click to expand...
If you go slow and run your spindle at over 500 RPM, you will get the same .0001 reading every time. Most people don't go slow enough.
 
WobblyHand said:
Not sure that I care if it is metric, a single R8 collet isn't that expensive. But it would be far better if it were imperial...
Click to expand...
It's not the collet that's the problem, it's the tip that's a metric diameter instead of a nice even .200 or .500. Fine if your mill has metric dials.
 
Dabbler said:
The tessa ones are about the same as the euro style, except the in euro ones, they grind the shaft down to 10mm.

Unless you lap the mating surfaces yourself, the cheap euro style from fleabay will give you late kick out. I've fixed 2 of them for friends. If you get a good one from Germany, prepare to pay about 100 euros. -- and they are still metric.




If you go slow and run your spindle at over 500 RPM, you will get the same .0001 reading every time. Most people don't go slow enough.
Click to expand...
I am with you, I usually turn the spindle at between 500 and 600 RPM and ease into it; but, I am paranoid so I run it 3 times at each edge I am checking and then start my operation. Its the ol' measure twice cut once or thrice in this case.
 
MrWhoopee said:
It's not the collet that's the problem, it's the tip that's a metric diameter instead of a nice even .200 or .500. Fine if your mill has metric dials.
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Have a DRO on my mill, so it doesn't matter to me, DRO reads both and will switch from one system to another.
 
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