In the field we use the stamped Oregon file guide. After about ten hand filings it’s helpful to remove the chain and run it through a bench mounted sharpener like the one Oregon shells or even the Harbor Freight one. I have given up on even letting the farm help sharpen a chainsaw. It is easier to just have them rotate the chain out with a sharp chain. The clamp on the bar guides work well if set up properly,but are slow. Chain saws on the farm are one of the highest maintenance items I have. If I can have two years life out of a new Sithl I am grateful. I am sure that most members here can probably have good results with just a chain file by hand. They have a good understanding of rakes and cutting angles along with knowledge of how to file. Not common among the general population.
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Chainsaw sharpening question.
- Thread starter Boswell
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2019
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- 7,178
Also....
Your local hardware store or power equipment shop probably does it for less than $10/chain. Not cheap, but cheaper than buying a new chain.
Once you have one that's been properly sharpened you can probably do it yourself with whatever gadget you choose. Kinda hard to DIY if you don't have a reference.
A little like grinding HSS bits for the lathe, if you can see what needs to be done it's a big help (RIP @mikey) .
As with everything like this maintenance is easier than fixing it once it's gone south.
Having a good running and sharp saw is a joy, anything else is a curse.
John
Your local hardware store or power equipment shop probably does it for less than $10/chain. Not cheap, but cheaper than buying a new chain.
Once you have one that's been properly sharpened you can probably do it yourself with whatever gadget you choose. Kinda hard to DIY if you don't have a reference.
A little like grinding HSS bits for the lathe, if you can see what needs to be done it's a big help (RIP @mikey) .
As with everything like this maintenance is easier than fixing it once it's gone south.
Having a good running and sharp saw is a joy, anything else is a curse.
John
We have an electric like a dremmel too for sharpening, works great.
For the narrow electric we have the file.
Problem is keeping everything perfect, over time, the angle gets off just a bit and the saw wants to cut a curve. Small logs are fine, but if over about 2 inches the bar binds.
Just bought the second from smallest Oregon grinder from Amazon, 199.00
It looks good, bench or wall mount, problem is it needs ti mount to edge of bench as a knob hangs below the edge.
Working on a foot to allow bench mounting away from edge.
Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
For the narrow electric we have the file.
Problem is keeping everything perfect, over time, the angle gets off just a bit and the saw wants to cut a curve. Small logs are fine, but if over about 2 inches the bar binds.
Just bought the second from smallest Oregon grinder from Amazon, 199.00
It looks good, bench or wall mount, problem is it needs ti mount to edge of bench as a knob hangs below the edge.
Working on a foot to allow bench mounting away from edge.
Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2014
- Messages
- 2,276
That is exactly the one I had but can no longer find. Still might just free-hand for as little as I use my Chainsaw. Thanks @Firstram for IDing this.
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2014
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- 3,542
Over the years we've had to have over 2 dozen trees removed from the yard at home, and another dozen at the family cottage. In both locations we've had professional arborists do the job. All of them have sharpened their blades free hand. Just a few strokes with a round file and they're off and running.
Back when I was cutting the trees myself, I didn't bother trying to sharpen my own blades. I would buy them 6 at a time. When I was down to the last couple, I'd take them to the local Stihl dealer. They would sharpen them for $2.00 each. Over the years the price went up to $6.00, but even at that price you can have a pile sharpened before justifying one of those fancy sharpening jigs.
Hand-Crank Chain-Saw Sharpener - Lee Valley Tools
www.leevalley.com
I don't do a lot of cutting in my senior years. I don't think my Husqvarna Rancher 455 has 50 hours on it. I thought I'd try a smaller cordless chainsaw. To that end I purchased an Echo 18" cordless. I must say I'm less than impressed. It weighs nearly as much as the Husqvarna, has about 10% of the power, and goes through batteries quickly. In addition, it uses an odd chain. I've gone to several dealers searching out the proper replacement, but as of yet haven't had any success. Even though the ones they have are listed for the saw, they either have the wrong chain pitch, or the wrong tooth configuration.
We have 4 stihl, one gas and 3 electric.
The small and medium electric take a narrow chain, great for pruning, cut like butter, not as good on large wood.
The last is full size and dies very well, you need to let the saw do the work, a gas one you can lean on it, not so much with battery.
They have a decent run time as do I, when the batteries run out I am too so it works.
We did a PU load of wood on 2 batteries in the large saw and 2 in the small saw.
Got more at a sale, so 4 large batteries we are good, they are very expensive but less noise and smell, but gas does work better.
Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
The small and medium electric take a narrow chain, great for pruning, cut like butter, not as good on large wood.
The last is full size and dies very well, you need to let the saw do the work, a gas one you can lean on it, not so much with battery.
They have a decent run time as do I, when the batteries run out I am too so it works.
We did a PU load of wood on 2 batteries in the large saw and 2 in the small saw.
Got more at a sale, so 4 large batteries we are good, they are very expensive but less noise and smell, but gas does work better.
Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
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- Oct 17, 2023
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- 39
Freehand sharpening for me, just use a Dremel with a small diameter stone for doing the hook, then file across the top of the tooth. Mine work like new.
A bit of practise and you will be there.
A bit of practise and you will be there.
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2014
- Messages
- 2,276
BTW, I ended up just freehand sharpening. I'm reasonably handy with a file and so it was no problem. took 10 minutes. This is a neighbors chainsaw and I don't think it had ever been re-sharpened so I went around the chain twice with around 4 strokes per tooth. Easy-Peasy
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- Dec 3, 2023
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- 87
I have milled logs to make cabinets and furniture for 40 years with a sperber mill. ( chainsaw mill) I only sharpen chains with a pro electric sharpener. The sharpeners come in a million brand names and most of them look exactly alike. (which is weird to me) There's a lot of reasons to use an electric sharpener. They are accurate, and sharpen chains quickly. They are also expensive to buy, so unless you do a lot of cutting you can just do field "touch ups" with a file, and then drop them off for grinding at about $8. per loop at a sharpening shop usually, when they get bad or begin cutting crooked.
When you have an electric sharpener, you tend to do as Mr whoopee said, You sharpen all your chains before you go out to cut, and just change out the chain if your chips start to look like sawdust. Then when you get back to the shop, you sharpen all the chains that are dull and you are ready for the next cutting.
Old timers (I mean older than me by a few generations) got proficient at using files. They didn't need guides and could tell you what was wrong with your chain just by watching the chips fly.
It's worth understanding the mechanics of the way a chain cuts. Understanding that the rake height relationship to tooth height is important for pros, but maybe not so important to occasional users if it's "close enough". The same goes for tooth angles. somewhere between 30 and 35 works for crosscutting, but probably not important exactly what angle so long as they are the same for the right and left side teeth.
For most users, knowing everything isn't necessary, but knowing the basics is important.
Don't cut dirt or dirty logs whenever possible
When your chips start to look like saw dust, your chain is shot.
If your cut begins to curve then the teeth on one side have hit something harder than they are and are dull on one side of the chain.
When you have an electric sharpener, you tend to do as Mr whoopee said, You sharpen all your chains before you go out to cut, and just change out the chain if your chips start to look like sawdust. Then when you get back to the shop, you sharpen all the chains that are dull and you are ready for the next cutting.
Old timers (I mean older than me by a few generations) got proficient at using files. They didn't need guides and could tell you what was wrong with your chain just by watching the chips fly.
It's worth understanding the mechanics of the way a chain cuts. Understanding that the rake height relationship to tooth height is important for pros, but maybe not so important to occasional users if it's "close enough". The same goes for tooth angles. somewhere between 30 and 35 works for crosscutting, but probably not important exactly what angle so long as they are the same for the right and left side teeth.
For most users, knowing everything isn't necessary, but knowing the basics is important.
Don't cut dirt or dirty logs whenever possible
When your chips start to look like saw dust, your chain is shot.
If your cut begins to curve then the teeth on one side have hit something harder than they are and are dull on one side of the chain.
