Engine case sealant

mofosheee said:
Thanks everybody! ...... with 18K reviews @ 80% positive rating went with the permatex
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They recommend applying, tightening until it squeezes out visually, then stop. Wait one hour. And then torque to spec. Sounds like a good plan for RTV.
 
The main problem that I would have with the amazon.com/Permatex-25238 is that it is not compatible with gasoline, which is made from oil. I use and like either the #2 or Aviation Permatex for engine cases, (lots of VW’s, a few bikes, and other types of cases).
 
Nutfarmer said:
I second C-bag on the permatex aviation. Never had it fail on the aluminum vw cases. My be old school but it works.
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Never had a leak and after 120,000mi it comes apart because it never hardens. Old school for sure but it was the only thing we used to rebuild our engines at aircraft school. Anything that goes on in two stages is suspect for this application IMHO because you don’t want to add bearing clearance, just seal the case.
 
I like honda aluminum case sealer.
It just works.
Key is proper application for environment. Lots of RTV sealants need zero solvent contact, partial assembly and cure times.
Most “sealers” fail because they are used wrong.
Much like contact cement or “weather stripping glue”
Seems many miss the “apply to both surfaces and let dry xxx min”
 
My son uses Permatex Right Stuff Black when he builds his race engines for his Triumph GT6 Vintage racecar. He is running about 12.5 to 1 compression and turns 8700 RPMs. The engine doesn't leak a drop except from the oil fill in the cast aluminum valve cover, there is only a flip open cap on the valve cover. I designed a plug to seal this type of oil filler that worked great on the Triumph TR6 Vintage racecar that we built for a friend but I haven't yet machined the plug to seal the GT6 filler. That's being done during this winters engine refresh.
 
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