If you are drilling a stock blank and have to work the blank after drilling anyway why does the hole have to be so good? What is the extra 'couple hours' for if the hole is not 'true'?
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Drill Press Chuck Runout
- Thread starter sean69
- Start date
If you are drilling a stock blank and have to work the blank after drilling anyway why does the hole have to be so good? What is the extra 'couple hours' for if the hole is not 'true'?
I am using a dial indicator to test for runout - it is there in the chuck body.
It certainly can be a combination of runout and alignment. I've never really been happy with 'the fixture'
I suppose mounting 2 indicators on a bar in the chuck would allow me to mic the whole length of the fixture & not just the top 3" - though it is a plywood and maple jig - sooooo not super smooth, flat or true. But it certainly sounds like a faster setup than futzing with the laser.
though I guess I could also grab a length of aluminum angle stock or use some setup blocks ..... that stock needs to move along the fixture, drill 3" move the stock, drill another - flip, drill 3" move the stock ... Lots of things can be happening there.
The next operation would be 'roughing' out the barrel channel with a router. The barrel and mag tube need to be absolutely parallel to one another. So I need an edge on the work to be absolutely parallel to the hole center.
Agreed.
The correct tool geometry for the material... technically for my application into the end grain, a forstner type bit would be ideal, but they just don't make em that long
Would an auger work ? Apart from the threaded tip it has the same geometry as a forstner bit.
Sean, I looked into how the wood turner guys bore lamp holes and they use a lamp auger, sometimes called a shell auger. Supposedly, it bores a straight hole in wood and might work better for you if you can hold the work piece in the lathe. Here is one such bit: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW168...&qid=1539030527&sr=8-3&keywords=auger+bit+5/8
This has got to be better than trying it in a drill press. A drill bit will deflect in a deep hole that long, no matter how careful you are. This auger has a shape that will hopefully keep you centered.
This has got to be better than trying it in a drill press. A drill bit will deflect in a deep hole that long, no matter how careful you are. This auger has a shape that will hopefully keep you centered.
I have one of those shell drills. Was my dad’s, never had to use it to date.
To remove the chuck, you will need to make or purchase these. You need to get the right sized wedges!
https://www.amazon.ca/Wedge-Sets-Set-No-WEDGE/dp/B0067BSG9S
To remove the chuck, you will need to make or purchase these. You need to get the right sized wedges!
https://www.amazon.ca/Wedge-Sets-Set-No-WEDGE/dp/B0067BSG9S
Yes augers do work & I have used them - mostly in the ramrod holes. the drawback for them is't use power to run them ...
you also need a starting hole to keep them accurate.
Yes - I have delved into the deep hole thing extensively. Lamp turners, pepper mill makers, flute makers all need to make deep holes - but they don't need to be particularly accurate as all they do after is mount the piece between centers after an ~voila~ the hole is centered by accident...
What you have there is a ship auger - a shell auger is quite different, no center spur and a very shallow cutting angle - they almost grind. they are specifically designed for cutting into end grain but you don't see them any more since the advent of the forstner ...
The next best option I really have is creating some tooling so I can do this on the lathe.
yes - I looked at the chuck - it has no shoulder on the arbour ... so means drilling and pinning. not sure it's worth the effort.