Dark Screw Cutting Oil in a Flood Coolant System

[Ianagos]

These keep coming up in my Google searches, but @lanagos had warnings about Mobil products:

Amazon.com: Mobilmet 426, Cutting Oil, 5 gal : Industrial & Scientific

Buy Mobilmet 426, Cutting Oil, 5 gal: Screw-In Hooks - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Mobil 103323 Mobilmet 766 5gal: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Mobil 103323 Mobilmet 766 5gal: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

What is the argument against running Vactra #2? Too viscous? Not designed to be a CF? The machine would like it!

Vactra is not made to be a cutting oil.

I recommend you call qualichem like I mentioned but if not I’ll see if I can post a cutting oil recommendation for you tomorrow. It’s late now and I been working all day.

The Mobil was just their water soluble that I had problems with. The Mobil stuff you listed is not safe for yellow metals ie: your leadscrew nuts and half screw nuts so that’s no good. But other Mobil straight cutting oils may be suitable.

 

[erikmannie]

Vactra is not made to be a cutting oil.

I recommend you call qualichem like I mentioned but if not I’ll see if I can post a cutting oil recommendation for you tomorrow. It’s late now and I been working all day.

The Mobil was just their water soluble that I had problems with. The Mobil stuff you listed is not safe for yellow metals ie: your leadscrew nuts and half screw nuts so that’s no good. But other Mobil straight cutting oils may be suitable.

Very good point about protecting the yellow metals on my machine!

I will call Qualichem https://www.qualichem.com/water-treatment

 

[mksj]

I really do not see the need to use flood coolant on a lathe unless you are doing production work or exotic metals like titanium, and the latter cutting oil may catch fire. As others have mentioned many of the dark cutting oils will quickly discolor exposed metal on the lathe, and if you do not have an overhead splash field will cover your garage door, ceiling and you with coolant. I have made hundreds of systems for different people and I can't recall one person that opted for flood coolant. Just because you have a coolant pump, doesn't mean you need to use it. Even the people that do machining for income, on a manual machine I have not seen flood coolant used routinely. I would get some time on your lathe as is, use a brush or oil bottle, and if you want to take it to the next level use an air/liquid system like the Fogbuster. I really do not see the reason to spend money on 5 gallons of cutting fluid just to try it and then rarely use it after.

If you insist on flood coolant I previously mentioned in your other thread that I have used the KoolRite emulsion oils in my metal bandsaw, it was the only one that lasted more than a few months and didn't turn nasty and stink up the garage. I was in Tucson, and I changed it after a year more because of cleaning the cuttings as opposed to the fluid going bad. Since it is a dilution with water, at around 8-9% a gallon can last a long time, but you must periodically check the specific gravity and add water or coolant. It worked very well in the bandsaw and helped remove the chips, but I now run it dry because I use it less frequently and got tired of the mess and this is with splash shields on the saw. You can also check with David Best, he uses a FogBuster system with a water base coolant that has also lasted. I previously tried Kool Mist and it went bad quickly. I use thread cutting oil on the lathe for turning, but you must wipe it down when done otherwise it will stain. Also Anchor Lube and host of other cutting oils. Save you money and get some time on your lathe before jumping down this pit.

KOOLRite 2290 Long Life Coolant

 

[erikmannie]

I really do not see the need to use flood coolant on a lathe unless you are doing production work or exotic metals like titanium, and the latter cutting oil may catch fire. As others have mentioned many of the dark cutting oils will quickly discolor exposed metal on the lathe, and if you do not have an overhead splash field will cover your garage door, ceiling and you with coolant. I have made hundreds of systems for different people and I can't recall one person that opted for flood coolant. Just because you have a coolant pump, doesn't mean you need to use it. Even the people that do machining for income, on a manual machine I have not seen flood coolant used routinely. I would get some time on your lathe as is, use a brush or oil bottle, and if you want to take it to the next level use an air/liquid system like the Fogbuster. I really do not see the reason to spend money on 5 gallons of cutting fluid just to try it and then rarely use it after.

If you insist on flood coolant I previously mentioned in your other thread that I have used the KoolRite emulsion oils in my metal bandsaw, it was the only one that lasted more than a few months and didn't turn nasty and stink up the garage. I was in Tucson, and I changed it after a year more because of cleaning the cuttings as opposed to the fluid going bad. Since it is a dilution with water, at around 8-9% a gallon can last a long time, but you must periodically check the specific gravity and add water or coolant. It worked very well in the bandsaw and helped remove the chips, but I now run it dry because I use it less frequently and got tired of the mess and this is with splash shields on the saw. You can also check with David Best, he uses a FogBuster system with a water base coolant that has also lasted. I previously tried Kool Mist and it went bad quickly. I use thread cutting oil on the lathe for turning, but you must wipe it down when done otherwise it will stain. Also Anchor Lube and host of other cutting oils. Save you money and get some time on your lathe before jumping down this pit.

KOOLRite 2290 Long Life Coolant

So helpful!

From https://hqtinc.com/lubricants/wd-40lubricantigalloncanpnwd-10010-1.html I get this screenshot:



and then I find:



So it sounds like AlphaSol 190 is equivalent to Koolrite 2290.

I don’t mean to appear stubborn here; I just want to test my flood coolant system. I plan on saving up for the 1 gallon in the eBay screenshot, along with a cheapo 0-10% Brix refractometer.

I am definitely getting time on the lathe. Zero issues so far.

 

[talvare]

I invite anybody to post a link for a recommended oil or coolant.

Health considerations are at the top of the list & I am also pretty low on funds.

I've been using the Mobil 766 as flood coolant in my lathe for the past 8 or 9 years and have been satisfied.

Ted

 

[Liljoebrshooter]

I was going to make a comment but I will keep it to myself.

Joe

 

[ThinWoodsman]

On the "why flood coolant" front, why not try a drip system first? A drip oiler mounted to the carriage or headstock, with a flex-hose to position it just before the toolbit. Costs in the neighborhood of twenty bucks, won't get oil everywhere.

 

[matthewsx]

I think you already had the right solution shown in the first post here.

John

 

[Suzuki4evr]

I think it is time to take a break from Googling this when I end up here, and seriously considering it:

Amazon.com : Snappy Pure Peanut Oil, 1 Gallon, 4 Pack : Grocery & Gourmet Food

Amazon.com : Snappy Pure Peanut Oil, 1 Gallon, 4 Pack : Grocery & Gourmet Food

www.amazon.com

Benefits: non-sulfurized, non-chlorinated, no health hazards, economical. Risks: may not age so well, unconventional (even laughable) choice, more of a fire hazard.

Seriously, though, the peanut oil is the current front runner.

Peanut oil starts smoking at 446°F.

Palm oil also comes up in my Google searches.

Unless you or your machine are allergic to peanuts

 

[erikmannie]

I appreciate all the helpful responses. I settled on Mobil 766 because I won’t have to take the time to mix up a solution. Also, I really don’t have space to store a refractometer!