Craftsman drill press damage

chips&more said:
I would first try to leave well enough alone. I would scrupulously clean both mating surfaces. Deburr if necessary, BUT be mindful of what you are doing to make sure you do not change the mating configuration! Then retract the jaws below the surface. Heat the chuck up until it’s difficult to hold in your hand(s) Then quickly install the chuck and smack the end of the chuck with a dead blow plastic hammer…Good Luck, Dave
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Thanks Dave, I posted before I read your post! Almost identical! Great minds think alike!



Bones
 
I have only run into threaded chuck mounts on hand held drills. The problem with a threaded mount is has poor radial registration. Runout isn't an issue in hand held tools but it is with stationary power tools.
 
RJ beat me to it. 40 years ago when I first got my JET made in Japan bench top drill press I was drilling 1/2" in holes in C channel, every three or four holes the chuck would come off the taper, regardless of how hard I slammed it on. Finally fed up one night. I cleaned everything up, smeared some loctite sleeve retainer on, slammed the quill/chuck onto the table and added a weight and went to bed. Forty years latter and I have been using it for light milling for 10 years and it hasn't come off once. Not only that the TIR is 0.0015" with a test bar in a Pigeon brand 13mm chuck.

Worked for me...Now when it comes to try and take it off, I guess lots of heat.

David
 
I've got a small drill press with just a jacobs taper , I had an issue with the chuck falling off occasionally and some run out, their was some burrs on it which i used a stone on to buff them off. I used blue an the taper and pushed the chuck on lightly and pulled it off , I managed to get it low run out and fairly well attached.

Have you got a photo of the jacobs taper itself and it's damage for everyone to evaluate and puzzle over ?

Stu
 
benmychree said:
... I got it and a bunch of others from a friend's estate, he got them from a tool repair shop at Kaiser Steel Co. in Napa Ca. when the plant finally closed, he was the machine shop superintendent, and I served my apprenticeship there in the mid 1960s when he was a journeyman there.
...
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Oh, man, you've got to give me a moment. It's been so long since I've seen my hometown, my response to your post was, "Kaiser Steel is closed?" I bet Carl's Hobby Shop is gone, too...
 
David S said:
RJ beat me to it. 40 years ago when I first got my JET made in Japan bench top drill press I was drilling 1/2" in holes in C channel, every three or four holes the chuck would come off the taper, regardless of how hard I slammed it on. Finally fed up one night. I cleaned everything up, smeared some loctite sleeve retainer on, slammed the quill/chuck onto the table and added a weight and went to bed. Forty years latter and I have been using it for light milling for 10 years and it hasn't come off once. Not only that the TIR is 0.0015" with a test bar in a Pigeon brand 13mm chuck.

Worked for me...Now when it comes to try and take it off, I guess lots of heat.

David
Click to expand...
David S said:
RJ beat me to it. 40 years ago when I first got my JET made in Japan bench top drill press I was drilling 1/2" in holes in C channel, every three or four holes the chuck would come off the taper, regardless of how hard I slammed it on. Finally fed up one night. I cleaned everything up, smeared some loctite sleeve retainer on, slammed the quill/chuck onto the table and added a weight and went to bed. Forty years latter and I have been using it for light milling for 10 years and it hasn't come off once. Not only that the TIR is 0.0015" with a test bar in a Pigeon brand 13mm chuck.

Worked for me...Now when it comes to try and take it off, I guess lots of heat.

David
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stupoty said:
I've got a small drill press with just a jacobs taper , I had an issue with the chuck falling off occasionally and some run out, their was some burrs on it which i used a stone on to buff them off. I used blue an the taper and pushed the chuck on lightly and pulled it off , I managed to get it low run out and fairly well attached.

Have you got a photo of the jacobs taper itself and it's damage for everyone to evaluate and puzzle over ?

Stu
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Well I was at the shop today, didn’t get pics of the taper, thinking of dressing up, and putting valve lapping compound on them and spinning the spindle while holding the chuck????




Bones
 
No, not yet...

First is clean both parts and ink up the male and fit them together and inspect.

You can stone or file high spots.

Low spots do not matter.

Most likely a single spot made a burr so you have ugly layer rings.

Clean those up and you will be fine.

For the female side use a stone for die grinder and use hand motion.

It will take time but it can be repaired.

Locktight can help when done

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
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