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Craftsman drill press damage
- Thread starter boneyard51
- Start date
The press in the photo is a bit older than mine. I had a friend with a bench top press that approximate age. In both cases, the quill was tapered for a MT2 to male JT adapter. I don't recall the number for the Jacob's taper. Anyway, it will vary some depending on the size of the chuck. Mine is a 17" floor model. His was a 12" bench model.
It's been my experience that only the small "toy" drill presses have the JT ground on the end of the quill. For serious Craftsman presses, it will probably be a MT2 inside. Take it down and find out for sure and then I highly recommend a new chuck as well. The old one may be OK but I wouldn't trust it to be true.
It's been my experience that only the small "toy" drill presses have the JT ground on the end of the quill. For serious Craftsman presses, it will probably be a MT2 inside. Take it down and find out for sure and then I highly recommend a new chuck as well. The old one may be OK but I wouldn't trust it to be true.
Bill Hudson
If there is no morse taper socket in the spindle, and only a Jacobs taper on the spindle end, I recommend to thread the spindle end, single point in the lathe with a shoulder, and use a threaded Jacobs chuck; I have a new 1/2" Jacobs chuck (5/64 - 1/2") with 1/2" - 20 TPI thread that I would sell.
In my experience, (less than) industrial rated drill presses do not have Morse taper sockets on their spindles, especially bench mounted ones.
In my experience, (less than) industrial rated drill presses do not have Morse taper sockets on their spindles, especially bench mounted ones.
Ben, you are right, the Jacobs taper is machined into the spindle! Looks like it’s thread time! Single pointing to a shoulder??? Being away from machining for a spell, (40 years) I may not have the confidence to do that my self. What about trying to use a die? Any suggestions would be helpful.
Edit: is your Jacobs chuck a USA or China ? Price?
Bones
I would not try a die to thread it, you can turn a recess a little smaller that the thread root to allow the threading tool to run out. Likely if you used a die, the chuck would run out or wobble, maybe both. I'd sell the chuck for $30, it is USA made by Jacobs and has a key, it looks unused, I got it and a bunch of others from a friend's estate, he got them from a tool repair shop at Kaiser Steel Co. in Napa Ca. when the plant finally closed, he was the machine shop superintendent, and I served my apprenticeship there in the mid 1960s when he was a journeyman there. I can post a picture of it, if you so desire.
I had a problem with the chuck coming off the Jacobs taper on my drill press. Cutting 3" diamweter circles in aluminum with a fly cutter will do that. I solved my problem by adding a small amount of super glue to the taper before I reseated the chuck. It never came off again. When I finally did pull the chuck, I had to heat it to break it free.
Not the ideal method but as they say, any port in a storm. BTW, LocTite blue should do the job as well
Not the ideal method but as they say, any port in a storm. BTW, LocTite blue should do the job as well
I would first try to leave well enough alone. I would scrupulously clean both mating surfaces. Deburr if necessary, BUT be mindful of what you are doing to make sure you do not change the mating configuration! Then retract the jaws below the surface. Heat the chuck up until it’s difficult to hold in your hand(s) Then quickly install the chuck and smack the end of the chuck with a dead blow plastic hammer…Good Luck, Dave
Is that price shipped? Do you take PayPal? I was thinking of a 5/8 thread, so that it would be stronger than a 1/2 in bit.
BONES
Hadn’t thought no of that! I could dress up both the male and female tapers, set the chuck out in the Oklahoma sun before putting it on, add the best non removeabke loctite, tap in on with a brass mallet.........may be on to something! Thanks
Bones