Craftsman/Atlas 6", what have I gotten my self into?

Hi kopeck

Like you I'm new to machines and also have a 07301. The bushings on mine were shot when I got it so they got replaced first off. The old bushings I removed had no holes in them and the new bushings were installed without modifications. I have found that I add about two drops of oil in each oil cup per hour of run time. On the tail riser, mine has only one mounting bolt.
It's taken me some time but I'm finally able to get some pretty smooth cuts with it. I turned some right hand threads this week and will try some left hand next. Then on to boring and internal threads.
You mentioned a QCTP, I bought the OXA from Little Machinshop, seems to work great, best tool money spent to this point.
I hope you enjoy your new lathe as much as I am mine!!

Jeff
 
Thanks for the words of encouragement guys. I've got the old girl broke down to the point where only the head stock casting and bed/legs remain. All the gears have been cleaned (the PO completely covered everything in heavy grease, almost like wheel bearing grease). I'm going to hit the bed castings with the pressure washer and start putting it back together. I just need to wait for the new belt to get here....

I've also got the new top for the stand glued up.

Progress....

Z2V, did you get the kit from Little Machine shop or just the tool post?

K
 
kopeck
On the tool post, I got the the tool post with five tool holders and added three additional holders for turning tools. Money well spent in my opinion.
I used a link belt on mine. I honestly can't say one is better than the other but I don't have to remove the spindle to change the belt, not that I will wear the belt out in my lifetime, but I did shorten it two links.
Keep posting pics !!
 
Howdy,

I started a thread in the machine repair section that can be seen here:

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/craftsman-atlas-6-what-have-i-gotten-my-self-into.61670/

But I thought I would move over to this section since I find my self reading/digging here.

Just a quick update. The lathe is more or less back together. I need to take a picture of it cleaned up and sitting on it's reworked bench. I'm pretty happy so far. I've had to scrounge up a few parts on eBay and of course there's plenty of other stuff on there that I would love to buy but I need to see chips before I invest any more. :)

I did get a new counter shaft made up from O1 drill rod. For what ti's worth the original was surprisingly soft so I suspect me new one will work just fine.

One question though. My machine came with a drum switch. Since this is a threaded spindle/chuck is this a good idea? I need to redo the wiring, it's my next project and was wonder which way I should go. The drum switch looks to be pretty new as is the motor.

Thanks,

K
 
I know you didn't specifically request this, but I thought it best. I moved your original thread to this section from the Resto one and I merged your one post of your new thread in to this one. This will keep everything better organized. Hope you don't mind.
 
Not at all, it really makes the most sense anyway. The thread was going to bounce between restoration/repair and use soon enough, just seemed to make more sense for it to live here.

Thanks!

K
 
Thanks, Randy. I had the same thought this morning when I read the email of his post but didn't have time then to do anything.

To address your drum switch question, yes, with a threaded spindle nose, you don't want to try to turn (including thread) anything held in a screw-on chuck or face plate. But as you have the switch and motor, you may as well go ahead and use it. Just don't try to run in reverse except under the following circumstances. Collets held in the spindle are safe (that does not include collets held in a screw-on collet chuck like some ER chucks). And if you ever need to do any OD grinding, with most grinders you will need to run the spindle in reverse so that the work piece surface is not running in the same direction as the grinding wheel surface.
 
That's true, I don't have a draw bar but that doesn't mean I won't get one someday and I do have the switch already. I need to rewire, it works now but the insulation is giving up the ghost. I think it might be 10ga too, if not it has super heavy insulation on it.

It's getting close:

IMG_0977.JPG

IMG_0978.JPG

I have some maple to edge the plywood with.

K
 
K,

I don't recall whether or not up above you ever said what HP the motor is. But it would need to be #10 only if the run is quite long or if the motor is 3/4 HP or larger (which it should not be). And if the motor is running off of 110/120 VAC. For 1/2 HP & 120 VAC, #12 is adequate. For 1/2 HP & 240 VAC, #14 AWG is adequate. However, using larger than needed wire won't hurt anything (except maybe your wallet).
 
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