Craftsman/Atlas 6", what have I gotten my self into?

Hi Tom,

Thanks for the input.

1) It's a 3 Jaw chuck and the jaws are not reversible and of course it's missing the other set of jaws. It's a Delta #957, eBay turned up another chuck but no jaws. I know running it this way would be asking for trouble. I might start out with the 4 jaw since I can set the jaws the right way on that sucker. I'll just have to get used to setting work up. I've got plenty of dial indicators and bases from engine building...

2) Yep, planned on that as well. I just keep forgetting to bring my allen wrenches in from the garage. I've been in the cleaning mode more then anything. The way it's setup now seems really awkward.

3) That's the way I bought it. The only tool holder that came with it is way to big for the lathe. I'm sort of debating finding a few of the holders like you suggest or just going for broke and getting the quick change type from the Little Machine Shop. Their kit would get me a lot of things I'm missing plus I could start cutting it properly made tools, not something I tried grinding my self.

We have a used tool place in town that has a lot of this random stuff, I think I need to go dig around and see what I can turn up.

K
 
Did some more cleaning over the weekend. My ways are really beat up. There's wear too but like you guys said that's to be expected. Most of it seems to be on the edges, if I back the gib screws off just a hair it will run from one side to the other just fine. Of course that leaves a bit of slop down by the head stock so I guess it's finding a compromise.

The good news is my uncle is going to take a look at it when he's in town this week. He's a retired from Pratt & Whitney, spent his years there doing machine setup and repair. Scraping used to be one of his specialties. No idea on how much he can help me but I suspect he's going to be be able to evaluate the old girl a lot better then I will be able to!

One thing I did find is the counter shaft my machine is toast. A new one is pretty expensive, is there any reason I can't just get a piece of 1/2" rotary shaft from McMaster and have a friend with a mill machine it for me? That shaft isn't anything exotic it? I can't imagine it would be.

IMG_0957.JPG IMG_0958.JPG IMG_0959.JPG

K
 
I would first remove the cone pulleys from the countershaft. You can then measure the dimensions for a replacement shaft. It may not be all the same diameter.

I like to use O1 drill rod. Good dimensional consistency and can be hardened if needed.
 
I've done that already. The cone pulley was spinning on the shaft, someone didn't tighten down the set screws and it chewed the heck out of the shaft.

It it's Mics to 1/2".

Drill rod would be a good option too.

K
 
Another option is to get someone to weld up the existing shaft. I had to do this with a shaft I messed up in the gearbox of my tractor mower. No longer parts available. I had friend fill in the hole with MIG weld, then turned it down to dimension.
 
I had looked into this once on similar kind of shaft. By the time they welded, machined and straitened the darn thing I could buy a new one for less.

I think I'm going to try some O1 drill rod, that should be the most uniform. I'll just keep an eye on it.

Question for the Atlas folks. The spindle bearings/bushings I pulled out had holes in them where the oil cups are located, the new ones do not. I seem to remember reading somewhere that they're not suppose to have holes, the oil just finds it's way though the porous bushing? Is that right?

K
 
kopeck said:
I had looked into this once on similar kind of shaft. By the time they welded, machined and straitened the darn thing I could buy a new one for less.

I think I'm going to try some O1 drill rod, that should be the most uniform. I'll just keep an eye on it.

Question for the Atlas folks. The spindle bearings/bushings I pulled out had holes in them where the oil cups are located, the new ones do not. I seem to remember reading somewhere that they're not suppose to have holes, the oil just finds it's way though the porous bushing? Is that right?

K
Click to expand...
Seems to me a hole would be better. Unless I'm missing something, it should be pretty easy to do.
 
I need to get new bushings too ( I'm lazy but hey the old ones aren't that bad )) and I plan to drill the oil hole and split on one side for adjustment . Back to post #7 , yes the part you circled is what I'm talking about . On mine , possibly a early 6" there is just the one hole at the end in the center . Maybe yours is a later one ?
 
kopeck said:
Question for the Atlas folks. The spindle bearings/bushings I pulled out had holes in them where the oil cups are located, the new ones do not. I seem to remember reading somewhere that they're not suppose to have holes, the oil just finds it's way though the porous bushing? Is that right?
Click to expand...
A hole in the bushing will give you immediate oil to the shaft/bushing interface, and the excess will then exit the area unless there are seals in place to retain the oil. The idea of the blind hole to the back side of an Oilite bushing is that the oil will gradually enter the bushing and work its way to the shaft/bushing interface to do its job, and the excess oil will more or less remain above the bushing, gradually replenishing the oil as it exits the area. To work that way, you need an Oilite or other bushing in place that will retain oil in its pores. If the entrance hole to bushing interface gets plugged up with crud or dried oil, it will stop replenishing the bushing. Ideally the bushing would have an annular groove in the housing around the middle of the bushing length for access of oil to bushing.
https://www.oilite.com/
 
For what it's worth they're pretty darn easy to get out. The hardest part is getting the key out, it doesn't look like it can come out but it will. I just found where I read that the bearing shouldn't have a hole, it's right in the Craftsman manual. Bob pretty much sums is up what I read about these type bushings. I'm going to go without the hole and just keep an eye on things. I found my shaft has some wear, around .0015 (guessing, between .001 and .002) on both ends. I was worried but the one I found on eBay looks no better. I suspect they're all worn, nature of the beast, I kind of wish it was a Timken bearing unit but it is what it is. This is a learning tool for me, I'm not trying to make a living with it. I do want it make it the best it can be with out breaking the bank, which looks like it would be easy to do. eBay is dangerous. :)

As far as the holes in the foot I have no idea! I think mine is an early one, it has the early style counter shaft setup. I'm no expert, I just google things in my spare time. :)

K
 
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