Craftsman/Atlas 6", what have I gotten my self into?

FYI, all editions of the Atlas MOLO give suggested cutting speeds in SFM (Surface Feet Per Minute) for many different materials. And they have a quick reference table for looking up the required RPM (or actually the nearest available RPM on an Atlas 10" or 12" lathe) for various surface speeds and diameters.
 
kopeck said:
Never mind, I think I get it.

It's been "hacked" a little to work with the drum switch.

I'll check it out with my meter later today.

K
Click to expand...
As I am noted for dumb little suggestions , here are two more: make a way
protector. Grab three scraps of wood,one of quarter-inch plywood, 8" long
and 2 pieces of one by three to suit, nail together. Concave dings ,though
shameful,don't affect accuracy , Find a somewhat dull Nichoison flat file
and slide it along the wounded way, Four plus fingers ,this is just to find
the high spots . If there are any , apply tips of fingers to blend them in
As you do this , you will learn to feel when it's right. BLJHB
 
IMG_1167.JPG

3 Jaw!

Machining the black plate was interesting. I'm not sure I ever want to machine cast iron again, what I mess. My carbide inserts didn't really like to cut, especially at the outside diameter of the face, I could stall/slip the belts really easily. I tried some hand ground HSS but that didn't help a whole lot (probably due to my grind). Finally I went to youtube and started looking around found an older Abom79 video and he was using some random brazed on carbide tool. I had a few el chepo brazed tools, I can't recall where I got them but they were cheap and I'll be but it worked! I think the big round nose on the cutting edge was key. I still couldn't cut a ton per pass but but what I did cut clean and random stalling went away. Still what a mess, I might as well have grabbed the tractor and dumped a load of sand on top of the lathe. I took the carriage apart to clean it, that stuff was everywhere! I bet on a bigger machine where you could make chips vs the dust I made it wouldn't be as bad.

The run out in the chuck is a bit more then I had hoped. I'm seeing about .004 with drill rod. Maybe that's OK for a Shars chuck. I still have the old 4 jaw if I need to dial thing in. I did check the back plate and it seemed to machine pretty true, I would get a rand dip on the indicator but I think that was just the tip finding a rough spot in the casting.

Pretty happy in the end. I can't wait to do tackle a few projects. I think I'm already dealing with some bigger lathe envy, the little 6" is fun to use but I can see it's limitations.

K
 
K

In my experience, cast iron, like a few other materials, doesn't yield chips.
 
wa5cab said:
K

In my experience, cast iron, like a few other materials, doesn't yield chips.
Click to expand...

It yields evil. :)

I think one of the problems with my carbide inserts is that it would start to get a chip or peal the cast that's what would stall the lathe.

I also am wondering about my electric motor. It's a high start torque motor for HVAC applications, it snaps on but doesn't seem to carry a ton of torque at speed. I was making a light pass on some steel today with the lead screw on and it was doing it's thing but you could tell the motor was being taxed. It works aluminum like a dream.

K
 
That should only make a difference during starting. What is the rated HP?
 
It's a 1/3 HP GE Serv-S-Line motor running at 1725 RPM.

The last time I looked it up it's for blower type applications that take some torque to start but not to keep going. With the belt in the highest speed position and the lead screw engaged the motor is very easily stalled, even in aluminum on anything more then a scratch pass. Now I don't run up at that speed, I was just experimenting with speeds and feeds.

I've been running it at the second to the fastest setting with aluminum and it works pretty well. I've found that steel just doesn't want me to use the lead screw. I've been hand feeding which is fine but it would be nice to do a finish pass with the lead screw.

I know Atlas suggests a 1/3 HP motor, I don't want to over do it but I also feel like this one just doesn't have the torque when you need it.

K
 
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