Could use some guidance setting up my ATW Pacemaker

Jim F said:
Only thing the last cut proved is that your head stock and tail stock are aligned.
Click to expand...
Wouldn't using the tailstock be fine though? If the bed is unlevel (twisted), and the tailstock is aligned close to the headstock, then the tailstock would move with the twist in the bed like the carriage. Or is that not correct?
 
Masterjuggler said:
Wouldn't using the tailstock be fine though? If the bed is unlevel (twisted), and the tailstock is aligned close to the headstock, then the tailstock would move with the twist in the bed like the carriage. Or is that not correct?
Click to expand...
Refer to post #5.
You cannot check level with tail support.
 
slodat said:
So the way I started in post 1 is the way to go?
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Turning a 2 collar piece is quicker.
you only take 2 short, light cuts at each end.
 
I'm not sure I would trust the accuracy of the machine setup given you have the work piece extended beyond the recommended length without support. Most manufacturers recommend the work piece be supported when extended beyond 3 to 5 times its diameter. Beyond that length even minor tool pressure will cause the workpiece to deflect. Your measurements seem reasonable, but may be due to the fact the tool is deflecting the workpiece rather than cutting it.

Here's a link to an article on setting up and running a lathe from the American Machine Tools Company.
How To Use a Lathe (americanmachinetools.com)

Here's a clip from that article. It's near the end in a section entitled "Turning Work In Chucks".

"Some work can be machined more efficiently by using chucks, collets, mandrels, or faceplates to hold the work. Rough and finish turning using these devices is basically the same as for turning between centers. The workpiece should not extend too far from the work holding device without adequate support. If the work extends more than three times the diameter of the workpiece from the chuck or collet, additional support must be used such as a steady rest or a tailstock center support. "
 
projectnut said:
I'm not sure I would trust the accuracy of the machine setup given you have the work piece extended beyond the recommended length without support. Most manufacturers recommend the work piece be supported when extended beyond 3 to 5 times its diameter. Beyond that length even minor tool pressure will cause the workpiece to deflect. Your measurements seem reasonable, but may be due to the fact the tool is deflecting the workpiece rather than cutting it.

Here's a link to an article on setting up and running a lathe from the American Machine Tools Company.
How To Use a Lathe (americanmachinetools.com)

Here's a clip from that article. It's near the end in a section entitled "Turning Work In Chucks".

"Some work can be machined more efficiently by using chucks, collets, mandrels, or faceplates to hold the work. Rough and finish turning using these devices is basically the same as for turning between centers. The workpiece should not extend too far from the work holding device without adequate support. If the work extends more than three times the diameter of the workpiece from the chuck or collet, additional support must be used such as a steady rest or a tailstock center support. "
Click to expand...
 
I have a piece of 1018 2.5" x 10" that I'm going to try the two collar test on. I don't have any aluminum. Wondering if that will matter..?

I'm going to find out!
 
I believe I followed the video correctly. Results from the two collar test on 2.5” 1018. Total stick out is 8”. Took a 0.002 pass.

Head - 2.33030
Tail - 2.33215
Δ 0.00185 over 7”

f06728c70f95c4cd89a841083eb2f2f6.jpg
 
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