Coolant and rust

Hello,
Silverbullet, how do you find the hydrualic oil as a cutting fluid? I've just been offered some 46 at a good price,(about 1/3 of the cutting oil I like), might be a bit heavy but I hate the cleanup after using soluble oil.
- Barry.
 
I had a 4,000 square foot machine shop for nearly 40 years, sold it and retired; rust was not a problem in the good old days when coolants had amines in them to prevent breakdown and consequent rusting. The scare over nitrosamines forced the removal of amines; after reformulating, rust was a big problem, especially on machines that were used infrequently, where tramp oil would prevent the coolant from being aerated and breakdown occurred . I had a large surface grinder where this was a regular event, and I did try bubbling air into the sump without much success. I have a power hacksaw in my home shop where rust is a big problem, it cements the fine chips into a solid mass that takes a hammer and chisel to break up. My plan with it is to use a 50/50 mixture of cutting oil and kerosene, as recommended by the maker of the Marvel power hacksaw that is in my old shop. The kerosene transmits heat better than oil, the cut off parts are quite noticeably cooler than when the oil is concentrated. I plan to also use this on my Brown & Sharpe universal mill at home. On most of my machines at home I use TapFree in a tuna can with a brush, in my lathe, a Regal Leblond 19", I use a modern coolant concentrate that does not seem to have so much potential for rust as the previous ones that I have tried; oil, when used for roughing makes way too much smoke, which I imagine does not do good for our lungs.
 
I had a 4,000 square foot machine shop for nearly 40 years, sold it and retired; rust was not a problem in the good old days when coolants had amines in them to prevent breakdown and consequent rusting. The scare over nitrosamines forced the removal of amines; after reformulating, rust was a big problem, especially on machines that were used infrequently, where tramp oil would prevent the coolant from being aerated and breakdown occurred . I had a large surface grinder where this was a regular event, and I did try bubbling air into the sump without much success. I have a power hacksaw in my home shop where rust is a big problem, it cements the fine chips into a solid mass that takes a hammer and chisel to break up. My plan with it is to use a 50/50 mixture of cutting oil and kerosene, as recommended by the maker of the Marvel power hacksaw that is in my old shop. The kerosene transmits heat better than oil, the cut off parts are quite noticeably cooler than when the oil is concentrated. I plan to also use this on my Brown & Sharpe universal mill at home. On most of my machines at home I use TapFree in a tuna can with a brush, in my lathe, a Regal Leblond 19", I use a modern coolant concentrate that does not seem to have so much potential for rust as the previous ones that I have tried; oil, when used for roughing makes way too much smoke, which I imagine does not do good for our lungs.
I like that mixture 50/50 cutting oil and Kerosene
I might set my new horizontal bandsaw up with that mixture .
I hope my cheap coolant pump will run it good
 
Hello,
benmychree, like scwhite, I like the Kero mix idea. I've got the same problem on my bandsaw as well so have to clean it after every use, a real pain late at night. I also have the problem of the pump impellor sticking if I don't use it for a few weeks, more hassle when you just want to caut a small piece.
I use 50/50 Kero and Dextron III ATF as a penetrating fluid and it outperforms every thing else I have tried inclueding Kroil. Just bought a pail of stocktake clearance ISO 46 hydrualic oil,(same weight as Dextron), so will experiment with that as a mixer.
Thanks for sharing your experience.

- Barry.
 
Hello,
benmychree, like scwhite, I like the Kero mix idea. I've got the same problem on my bandsaw as well so have to clean it after every use, a real pain late at night. I also have the problem of the pump impellor sticking if I don't use it for a few weeks, more hassle when you just want to caut a small piece.
I use 50/50 Kero and Dextron III ATF as a penetrating fluid and it outperforms every thing else I have tried inclueding Kroil. Just bought a pail of stocktake clearance ISO 46 hydrualic oil,(same weight as Dextron), so will experiment with that as a mixer.
Thanks for sharing your experience.

- Barry.
I went and looked a used Clausing Horizontal bandsaw . It was so Gumed up with dry gummy waxy
coolent nothing worked right . All the blade rollers was locked up . Pump everything it was bad the worst I have ever seen .
I left it with them and went to Grizzly and bought
This new G4030
 
Just replace the word "coolant" with **lubricant** and keep turning. Apply it manually as has already been stated to whatever you're working on and all is well.

I should ask; Do you want to run coolant and why?
I like manually applying cutting oil with a small
Brush most of the time .
But I have a horizontal mill and I plane on running cutting oil onto my expensive cutters .
Some of those cutters are $500.
And you will need a good flow of oil on it
And it will cut and preform much better useing
Cutting oil .
I am planning on using that 50/50 mixture
Of rigid cutting oil and kerosene on it like Benmychree stated earlier . And my
Horizontal bandsaw . I think it would wash out the chips and keep the blade cooler & cut smoother
 
Well I mixed up some ISO 46 hydrualic oil and Kero in a 50/50 mix yesterday to try out as acutting oil,( a mix of silverbullet and benmychree's ideas), and as I had been in a discussion about homemade penertrating oils decided to compare to my old standby of 50/50 Kero/ATF, it was not as good. I had a bottle of Morey's Heavy Duty Oil Stabiliser out and decided to see how that would mix so added a few drops. Big difference which started a bit more experimentation. Ended up with a final mix of equal parts by volume Kerosene, ATF and hydrualic ISO 46 mixed then 6% Morey's added. somehow this works better than anything I have tried yet.
I digress from the matter at hand just thought some may be interested and as soon as I finish off the job at hand,(cast iron), I will try the 50/50 Kero and hydrualic oil for a cutting fluid as it is cheap and I have the ingrediants. Hopefully easy cutting, chip clearance and an end to rust!
 
For many years on my mill I have used a mix of cutting oil and diesel. Works OK and has no problems with rust - I guess Kero or Diesel, they really are there just to thin the oil (I suspect). I have tried the water soluble coolant on my lathe and I just find it gets under the cross slide and is such a pain I have drained it all out and am considering using the cutting oil and diesel mix - so I don't end up with the soupy white mix the water soluble stuff seems to create. I did mix it strong so have not had a problem with rust BUT I don't trust it - and because I don't work ever day of the year - leaving it sitting has been a problem. Other than smoke if you cut to deep and hard, what other problems exist with the cutting oil / diesel mix?

Mal
 
Back
Top