Coolant and rust

3strucking

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i have not been using coolant on my lathe because I am worried about rust. My shop is not climate controlled and humidity is always high in GA. Is there a way to run coolant without rusting becoming a problem in my situation?
 
I used to work in a shop that had a 15" Monarch lathe, which was a little piece of heaven, I might add. It had a built in coolant system and we just ran cutting oil in it. Never got rancid and kept everything oiled up nice, too.

It wasn't the ideal coolant for aluminum or anything like that, so we'd just leave the coolant pump shut off when working with non-ferrous materials.
 
Depending on the work you are doing it may or may not be necessary. Most soluble oils for flood coolant incorporate rust inhibitors. But for a lot of hobby use direct application of cutting fluids is also effective and appropriate.

Cheers Phil
 
I have been using direct application even though my lathe has a coolant tank and pump. I've been using tap magic on ferrous metals but it smokes like a freight train.
 
I'm with Terry, cutting oil in the coolant tank for when I need it - before it reached my hands the gasket sealing the top of my Holbrook's (sealed, oil-bath) QCGB had let go and water-based coolant got in and wrecked the unobtainium taper-roller bearings inside... Some Effort Required to clean up the gears and replace with imperial but available taper-rollers in top-hat bushes.. :(

NO water-based anything is getting near it now.

Dave H. (the other one)
 
i have not been using coolant on my lathe because I am worried about rust. My shop is not climate controlled and humidity is always high in GA. Is there a way to run coolant without rusting becoming a problem in my situation?

Just replace the word "coolant" with **lubricant** and keep turning. Apply it manually as has already been stated to whatever you're working on and all is well.

I should ask; Do you want to run coolant and why?
 
I have been using direct application even though my lathe has a coolant tank and pump. I've been using tap magic on ferrous metals but it smokes like a freight train.

I'm not sure where I got this idea, but it wasn't originally mine, to use Canola oil for a lubricant on ferrous metals. I mostly deal with aluminum and brass, but
when steel comes up, I've just been using the Canola oil from our kitchen. Squirt bottle or brush depending on what I'm doing. I compared it to every oil I had
in the shop, and its smoke point and odor are far superior and it seems to be a good lubricant to boot. Use it on the lathe and the mill. Mind you, my machines
are toys to some of you guys.
 
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