Collaboration on a 3D printed threading dial for a SouthBend 9C

[middle.road]

Thanks for the link. That is interesting.

It would be great to try some controlled experiments of printing several identical objects, going thru the strengthening process, and destructively testing and comparing the parts. My only problem is lack of time.

For this project the part I am most concerned with is the gear. It will be running against the steel lead screw, but it is very low torque.
If you find it does wear quickly just let me know, I've been looking for a reason to try printing ABS and nylon.

-brino

I do believe that most nylons swell when they come into contact with oil. IIRC. YMMV.

 

[Hawkeye]

I've read information on doing the annealing dry in an oven of about the same temperature. Since most plastics absorb water, sometimes to their hurt, I'd like to see a comparative treatment with similar pieces done dry and wet, then tested to destruction.

 

[ebolton]

We could try doing up the model in Fusion360, and using a different font that would be more detailed and pronounced.
Here's another pict of one I stumbled on over @Thingiverse. Fonts didn't come out well.
Need to go at least .050" deep I believe.

EDIT: or perhaps reverse them... https://www.ebay.com/itm/South-Bend-9C-Metal-Lathe-Thread-Dial-3D-Printed-Kit-New-/182982078435

EDIT-EDIT: Can anyone get me the OD of this dial? I'm looking around for dimensions but have come up empty.

((this is really, really making me want to fire up the printer I've laying in the shop...))

For lettering on a 3D printed model, .050 deep should be good. One thing I've found that helps is adding a few degrees of draft to the letters. In CAD, set the neutral plane at the bottom of the letters and draft the surfaces out. Different CAD systems, of course, use different terminology... You might have do do a couple of draft features to get them all. It's a good idea to use individual draft features on each character, anyway, since draft features are notorious for blowing up when you try to add the last surface. That can be pretty frustrating if the last surface in on the 10th letter you are drafting. In some CAD systems, you can extrude features, including text, with a taper. That does the same thing as the draft but it's a lot easier. I don't know Fusion 360 to know what is possible there, though.

-Ed

 

[Dave Paine]

EDIT-EDIT: Can anyone get me the OD of this dial? I'm looking around for dimensions but have come up empty.

((this is really, really making me want to fire up the printer I've laying in the shop...))

My slicing software says the dial I printed is 25mm dia, so perhaps the dial is 1in (25.4mm)

 

[RWanke]

Got the thread dial in the mail today. Looks cool as all get out. My wife was even fascinated that you can make something like that by printing it. Anxious to get started on it. Gear looks like it meshes with the lead screw real well. I still have a week or so of work to get the lathe back together so it might be a while to report on the dials actual use (old boss called and needed me to come in and do some machining for him). I hope to do a write up on how I fit it together. If you would Brino, please PM me your mailing address. I have a little gift I want to send you and can't read the address off the package you sent very well and want to make sure I get it right.

 

[brino]

Got the thread dial in the mail today.

Gear looks like it meshes with the lead screw real well.

Glad to hear that.

I still have a week or so of work to get the lathe back together so it might be a while to report on the dials actual use (old boss called and needed me to come in and do some machining for him). I hope to do a write up on how I fit it together.

No rush. I'd appreciate any feedback....positive or negative.
.....and remember if you find the PLA plastic wears too quick I have ABS and nylon in stock.
This is a learning opportunity for both of us!

If you would Brino, please PM me your mailing address.

PM sent.

Thanks!
-brino

 

[middle.road]

That itch to get mine up and running is getting worse & worser-er-er.

 

[whitmore]

The painting idea did not work out as well as desired. I printed another dial of better quality. I then painted the top and sanded off the surface.

The surface is not smooth due to the many layers used to fill the surface.

I would likely remove most of the letters and lines if I sanded off to remove the streaks in between. If I had the model I would increase the depth of the numbers, but I do not have the model.

One approach is to use a thin paint (which is transparent in small thicknesses), and apply excess, then press the face
against a flat to squeeze thin the part that isn't in the grooves. Maybe mix epoxy with black pigment, and clamp
against glass which has been oiled with silicone? This is giving me ideas... an old shaft graduation could be so treated,
and the squeeze-out could be accomplished with an application of heat-shrink tubing: nothing inside the
grooves would be disturbed.

 

[Norseman C.B.]

Are you looking to do mold patterns as well ??

 

[f350ca]

Brino, stop posting stuff like this, your making me want a printer. lol
Well done !

Greg