Clausing 5428 rebuild

[mattthemuppet2]

nice!

 

[AndySomogyi]

Got the flats of the top slide scraped into about 30 PPI, think that’s good enough for a top slide.

Couple tips I’ve come up with are the yellow spotting Charbonnel ink works best thinned with a drip of paint thinner, and likes to go on reasonably dry. The paint thinner works well because it dries and let’s the yellow ink dry a bit on the part, so it doesn’t smear the Prussian Blue.

A florescent light right on top of your work really helps you to see the ink, and is invaluable to seeing under the dovetail.

 

[AndySomogyi]

Wow, not good. Dovetails are 0.005 wider at one end that the other. Guess I’ve got a lot scraping to do.

In a way, I’m kind of not surprised at this level of wear, considering one is the gib screws was rammed in and busted off.

 

[AndySomogyi]

Got the dovetails scraped in, and parallel to within 0.0002, thinking that’s good enough. I got about 30 PPI on the scraping here.

This was really tricky because not only do the dovetails have to be parallel, but the angle has to match the opposing part, so I kept checking both angle and parallelism, and kept adjusting the scrape to being them both in.

Bear in mind that this is literally the third object that I’ve ever scrapped (well, I’ve scraped babbit engine bearings, but it’s different).

OMG, it’s 5:15 AM here, I’ve been at this for five hours , guess it’s time to get some sleep

 

[AndySomogyi]

Scraped the dovetails on the top slide, this was a bit tricky, but eventually got it. There’s no clearance in the corner of the dovetails, so tricky getting a scraper in there, and even trickier stoning it. I ended up using just one sheet of a diamond hone. That had a sharp edge and let me stone the full width of the ways.

Finished scraping the base and fitted the gib. It has a nice smooth action now, and a good contact patter on all the ways.

The front corner had a lot of damage where some idiot ran it into the chuck. As this was just cosmetic, I filled in the damaged areas with a mix of epoxy and iron filings. Used about a 50:50 by volume ratio. Worked pretty well.

Machined the top and sides with a face mill, all parallel now.

The outer cover had some surprising casting voids. Filled these in with epoxy. Gave everything a nice sanding, and got these parts primed and ready for paint.

 

[rwm]

I was wondering if you were going to fill in the damaged areas on the compound or just grind them smooth and maybe even symmetric. You obviously have some experience with machine rebuilding and this is looking great. Instead of epoxy mix would you ever consider brazing filler?
Robert

 

[AndySomogyi]

I was wondering if you were going to fill in the damaged areas on the compound or just grind them smooth and maybe even symmetric. You obviously have some experience with machine rebuilding and this is looking great. Instead of epoxy mix would you ever consider brazing filler?
Robert

Thanks. This is actually the first lathe / machine tool I’ve built, learning a lot, but I’ve been building / repairing mechanical things since I was about 5 , and I’m an engineer at my day job.

I thought about brazing it, but decided against it because I didn’t want to risk cracking the cast iron for a cosmetic repair. Figured I’d give epoxy / iron a try.

If it was something that had any sort of stress, especially a tension or shear, I would have brazed it then.

 

[AndySomogyi]

Didn’t like how the primer was sitting on this part, so wet sanded it down and re-shooting it.

 

[AndySomogyi]

Paint Time.

Color’s not an exact match, but it’s close enough.

 

[AndySomogyi]

Pretty happy with how these turned out. Going to check the fit one more time, get it assembled.