Buying a lathe, what tooling should I get/avoid?

[Bob Korves]

I don't really know that much about #4 way oil. My 13x40 lathe manual said to use Vactra #2, so I did, and it seems fine, but I have nothing else to compare it to other than oils for different applications.

 

[TakeDeadAim]

When I received my mill from Matt I was pleasantly surprised to find all the brown goop usually associated with new machines had been removed. It really took very little cleaning with some Purple Power spray to be ready to use. In speaking with him he un crates the machines, cleans and tests then re=crates for shipment to the end customer. Great customer service.

You will need some way oil, like Mobil Vactra #2, which you can get from McMaster Carr, MSC, where ever you can find it for less. Im not sure what is in the head and carriage on those machines but a phone call to QMT would answer that. Usually a light trans hydraulic oil like the Mobilgear series of oils is used but equivalent products are made by a number of lubricant companies. There is usually a run in period where you spend a bit of time in each speed just letting it run, engaging the feeds etc. Then complete an oil change in the gearboxes, check the drive belts etc.

The lathe must be bolted to a bench or stand, do not over build the stand. Lathes are made to be adjusted to cut straight, this is accomplished by the head and tail of the casting being the supporting structure. If the stand is made too stiff the head and tail of the casting become one solid unit and leveling and dialing in for a true cut over parts in excess of say 6" becomes difficult. If you look at the stands sold for these lathes it is really two cabinets with a piece of sheet metal between. Your design should emulate this.

Quite frankly learning to grind and use HSS tools is a great experience. I do a lot of my work with them because they are rather inexpensive and easy to sharpen. One place I do like carbide insert tooling is for threading and grooving and those tools can be purchased as needed.

Have fun and be sure and post some photos of the arrival and set up. I know Im not the only one who like to see them.

 

[TakeDeadAim]

Not adding anything, just what I started with for tooling and other accessories and what have been added over the years. You'll get the bug and will add more tooling as time goes on. It can get obsessive buying more tools for your tools!

Really nice convenience is a QCTP and a variety of tool holders. I use a lot of carbide inserted tool holders; many options out there but a decent start is the 1/2" triangular sets of 5 different holders for around $30-$40. You'll likely find in actual use you don't use all 5.
HSS cut off T-shaped or double angled sides for parting. The QCTP kits usually include this holder.
Drill chuck for the tail stock and some center drills.
Live center for the tail stock.
Some 3/8" and 1/2" HSS blanks for turning, threading, etc.
Micrometer and/or dial caliper for checking diameters.
Dial indicator and mag base for checking run out (4-jaw set up) and/or checking the Z-position when set to the end of the carriage.
Test indicator for checking run-out also, though a 0-1" will do the same thing.
Center gauge for setting up your threading tool.
Chip brush (and tweezers).
Cutting fluid, I prefer non-sulfur based to keep the stink down.

Some luxury items are a scissor type knurling tool, works soooo much better than the bump style in my experience.
Telescoping gauges for checking bores/inside diameters
DRO
Taper attachment if available.
Collet chuck/collets - collets are great! I have one lathe that's set up with a collet chuck and another with a set-tru 3-jaw chuck. Collets should be very accurate for staying on center if removing work from the lathe for a secondary operation, then returning to the lathe. Plus, they don't mar the surface of your work as easily as a really tight 3-jaw chuck.
Dedicated roll-away for your lathe tooling. Mine has all of the collets, spiders, tool bits, measuring tools, dedicated drill bits, etc. for quick use.
Optivisor for close up looking at work. I wear glasses with bifocals and catch myself peeking over my glasses for a better look. Use a magnifier (not very ofter), but do have a pair of safety glasses on the head stock for protection if peeking over the glasses.
More and more tool holders. I have around 35 on one lathe and 15 on the other. It's really convenient to switch between a triangular bit to a D diamond bit to a W bit, etc. without swapping tools in the tool holders and resetting center.

Some photos attached of my QCTP holders, tail stock tooling set up and HF roll-around tool rack dedicated to the G0709 lathe. Yes, I have gone to excess on a number of things. I'm sure you'll come up with better ways to organize your accumulation with WILL happen once you jump in! Enjoy the adventure!

Bruce

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Can I get an enlargement of your QCTP rack. I only have one row and Ive been told its excessive. LOL I like to not have to re set tools and zeros in the DRO

 

[ttabbal]

Pricing on Vactra 2 is annoying. Shipped, $50 1 gallon. About $110 for 5 gallons. I don't really want 5 gallons, but sheesh.

 

[TakeDeadAim]

McMaster Carr is $28 a gallon, MSC $25.01, I cant imagine shipping being $20 or more. If so see if you have a Mobil Lubricants dealer in Salt Lake, you could get your gear lube and some Vactra at the same time. I get my gear oil, (I run the same thing in all the gearboxes in the shop, and buy that in 5 Gal containers which are expensive to ship. I just called the local guy and asked for an equivalent to the recommended product. I spent the first part of my career in tool repair and rebuilding, believe me we did not stock 20 different lubes, Vactra 2 and 4 and a light and medium trans hydraulic.

 

[Z2V]

There is a guy local to me that bought the 5 gal bucket then sold off a few gallons at $20/gal on CL. I got one of them.

 

[ttabbal]

I'm looking at MSCs site and it says $38.48. I see the $28 on McMaster. I do wish they would give a shipping cost though.

 

[BGHansen]

Can I get an enlargement of your QCTP rack. I only have one row and Ive been told its excessive. LOL I like to not have to re set tools and zeros in the DRO

Hi TakeDeadAim,

Don't mean to encroach on the OP's thread, but here are some photos of my two lathes. The Grizzly G0709 has the two-tiered rack. Unistrut bolted to the back splash as low as it'd go and up high; maximize the stability. Then I welded up some angle brackets from 3/16" thick by 2" wide steel. It's actually pretty stable, doesn't bounce back and forth (much) when I tug on it hard.

The other set up is for my Clausing #5418. I made a roll-around back splash and attached a length of unistrut to the top tubing with a couple of aluminum blocks.

Tool holders are held in place with 1/8" thick aluminum "L" pieces that bolt to the unistrut and slip into the tool holder dovetail.

I can take anything from my Grizzly and use it on the Clausing without adjusting center. I made up some shims that are the difference in height between the two lathes (have to raise the tool holders on the Clausing from the Grizzly setting). Just grab off the Grizzly rack, drop the tool holder in place on the Clausing and slip the shim under the adjusting wheel, then lock it down.

Bruce

 

[ttabbal]

That's a nice collection of tool holders! Things to aspire to.

 

[Bob Korves]

The lathe must be bolted to a bench or stand, do not over build the stand. Lathes are made to be adjusted to cut straight, this is accomplished by the head and tail of the casting being the supporting structure. If the stand is made too stiff the head and tail of the casting become one solid unit and leveling and dialing in for a true cut over parts in excess of say 6" becomes difficult. If you look at the stands sold for these lathes it is really two cabinets with a piece of sheet metal between. Your design should emulate this.

A stand can be rock solid, then the lathe bed itself is used for leveling and adjusting with shims or whatever between lathe and stand.