- Joined
- Jan 25, 2015
- Messages
- 2,558
same down here.
+10 yesterday, -5 today.....
Smoked a full brisket on Sunday. Was tasty!
-
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Bought An Old Molo, But Not What I Expected?
- Thread starter great white
- Start date
+10 yesterday, -5 today.....
Smoked a full brisket on Sunday. Was tasty!
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2014
- Messages
- 21
Pierre,
He said that he has a 10F, so he should have the stud gear and largest change gear should be 64T.
great white,
The 10F and the Sears 12" models up through 101.07403 shared many parts with it. Pretty much everything except the FWD/REV gear box, countershaft bracket and a few more countershaft parts, and headstock casting, compound slide casting and tailstock casting. The late 12" shares the change gears with the early 12" and 10F, and a few other parts here and there, but all of the major parts are different. Although the threading charts in Part 7 of the MOLO you have should work with the 10F, you will be happier if you acquire a copy of V4. They turn up on eBay all the time. You'll just have to write the seller and ask whether or not there are any printed pages in Part 7 and if so, does the first page mention the Atlas 10" or the Sears 12". Most sellers don't know enough about the book to know to include a photo of that page in their ad. If the book is bound with plastic fingers (GBC), there is about a 50:50 chance it's the one you want. If it is wire bound (actually a better method), the chances are only about 10:90.
He said that he has a 10F, so he should have the stud gear and largest change gear should be 64T.
great white,
The 10F and the Sears 12" models up through 101.07403 shared many parts with it. Pretty much everything except the FWD/REV gear box, countershaft bracket and a few more countershaft parts, and headstock casting, compound slide casting and tailstock casting. The late 12" shares the change gears with the early 12" and 10F, and a few other parts here and there, but all of the major parts are different. Although the threading charts in Part 7 of the MOLO you have should work with the 10F, you will be happier if you acquire a copy of V4. They turn up on eBay all the time. You'll just have to write the seller and ask whether or not there are any printed pages in Part 7 and if so, does the first page mention the Atlas 10" or the Sears 12". Most sellers don't know enough about the book to know to include a photo of that page in their ad. If the book is bound with plastic fingers (GBC), there is about a 50:50 chance it's the one you want. If it is wire bound (actually a better method), the chances are only about 10:90.
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2015
- Messages
- 2,558
Thanks for the advice Robert, but rather than do the run around and searching for the right (for mine) MOLO with eBay/online sellers, I just made one out of what I already have.
Sure, it might be a bit "bastardized" but it's going to get the job done for me, gives an old beat up book a new lease on life and keeps it from being turned into recycled toilet paper or egg cartons. That's always a good thing....
I laminated the front/rear covers and added a flat plastic finger spine:
That preserves it's hard earned "patina" and should keep it reasonably clean from now on in the shop. The new spine (old white one was just barely more than dust at this point) lets it lay nice and flat when open:
Lots of room in the spine to add more pages in the future if I need/want to.
I printed off a threading supplement and inserted it in the threading chapter:
I got the size "off" a little bit when I guillotined them, but that doesn't bug me at all.
Not that i'll likely ever need it, but now my book covers 6", 10" and 12" threading.
Then I compared the rest of my version with the docs in the downloads and a 1937 version I downloaded off the net.
Didn't like all the missing/deleted info in chapter 8 (Lathe Attachments), so I just printed that off and inserted it in front of the pages already there:
That put back all the missing info on some attachments and all the stuff like valve guide grinding, etc.
Oiling chart was different, so in that goes:
While I was at it, I printed off both of the oiling pages on letter sized paper and laminated it for wall mounting:
(nevermind my fat toes!)
Just for the heck of it, I ran off the lathe picture on 11X17 to make it a wall poster that I will eventually cover in clear mac-tac plastic:
It's nice and big, easy to see the arrows and numbers. But that's also the problem with it: I'm not sure I want it taking up that much wall space. Oh well, at least I have them one way or the other.
Then I finished it up with most of the "Lathe Care and Construction" chapter:
Mostly the stuff to cover the 10" as opposed to the 12".
I think that pretty much covers it all, other than a few differences in the "fluff" in the forward (which I didn't really care about).
So, I have lots of space left in that spine. Anyone think of something worth adding to my nice little reference book?
.
Sure, it might be a bit "bastardized" but it's going to get the job done for me, gives an old beat up book a new lease on life and keeps it from being turned into recycled toilet paper or egg cartons. That's always a good thing....
I laminated the front/rear covers and added a flat plastic finger spine:
That preserves it's hard earned "patina" and should keep it reasonably clean from now on in the shop. The new spine (old white one was just barely more than dust at this point) lets it lay nice and flat when open:
Lots of room in the spine to add more pages in the future if I need/want to.
I printed off a threading supplement and inserted it in the threading chapter:
I got the size "off" a little bit when I guillotined them, but that doesn't bug me at all.
Not that i'll likely ever need it, but now my book covers 6", 10" and 12" threading.
Then I compared the rest of my version with the docs in the downloads and a 1937 version I downloaded off the net.
Didn't like all the missing/deleted info in chapter 8 (Lathe Attachments), so I just printed that off and inserted it in front of the pages already there:
That put back all the missing info on some attachments and all the stuff like valve guide grinding, etc.
Oiling chart was different, so in that goes:
While I was at it, I printed off both of the oiling pages on letter sized paper and laminated it for wall mounting:
(nevermind my fat toes!)
Just for the heck of it, I ran off the lathe picture on 11X17 to make it a wall poster that I will eventually cover in clear mac-tac plastic:
It's nice and big, easy to see the arrows and numbers. But that's also the problem with it: I'm not sure I want it taking up that much wall space. Oh well, at least I have them one way or the other.
Then I finished it up with most of the "Lathe Care and Construction" chapter:
Mostly the stuff to cover the 10" as opposed to the 12".
I think that pretty much covers it all, other than a few differences in the "fluff" in the forward (which I didn't really care about).
So, I have lots of space left in that spine. Anyone think of something worth adding to my nice little reference book?
.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2015
- Messages
- 2,558
The 12" chart gives different gear combinations than the 10" for the same thread so I'd need the 12" set for sure.
The bracket for the change gears (pictures) is different too so I'm not sure how useful the 12" chart would be for the 10".....
Good thing in found a copy of the thread supplement i guess.
The bracket for the change gears (pictures) is different too so I'm not sure how useful the 12" chart would be for the 10".....
Good thing in found a copy of the thread supplement i guess.
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2014
- Messages
- 21
Jack,
The MOLO version that covers the 10D is what I called 1937V1. The original has dark blue covers and all but the actual first printing (which I have only seen a catalog photo of) are spiral wire bound. I have one, and also have a partially cleaned up PDF copy. Unfortunately, the file size is much too large to upload either here or on Yahoo.
The versions for the 10F are either 1937V4 (which has the 10F Threading Supplement bound into Part 7) or 1937V2/3 with the loose 10F Supplement. All of them show up on eBay from time to time but usually in order to ID the version, you have to write the seller and ask whether or not there is anything bound into Part 7, and if there is, does the first printed page mention Sears 12" or Atlas 10F 10".
The MOLO version that covers the 10D is what I called 1937V1. The original has dark blue covers and all but the actual first printing (which I have only seen a catalog photo of) are spiral wire bound. I have one, and also have a partially cleaned up PDF copy. Unfortunately, the file size is much too large to upload either here or on Yahoo.
The versions for the 10F are either 1937V4 (which has the 10F Threading Supplement bound into Part 7) or 1937V2/3 with the loose 10F Supplement. All of them show up on eBay from time to time but usually in order to ID the version, you have to write the seller and ask whether or not there is anything bound into Part 7, and if there is, does the first printed page mention Sears 12" or Atlas 10F 10".
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2014
- Messages
- 21
Yes and no. 101.07362 through 101.07403 use the same change gear set as the 10F (up to 64T gears). The change gear brackets are a little different but if you think of the stud gear as being the tumbler gear, the 10F threading charts will work. However, MOLO 1937V5 has threading charts that show the tumbler gear. And there was a Sears 12" loose Threading Supplement printed.
The 101.07360 through 101.07401 use the same change gears as the 10D and earlier (up to 96T gears).
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2014
- Messages
- 21
Thanks for the advice Robert, but rather than do the run around and searching for the right (for mine) MOLO with eBay/online sellers, I just made one out of what I already have.
Sure, it might be a bit "bastardized" but it's going to get the job done for me, gives an old beat up book a new lease on life and keeps it from being turned into recycled toilet paper or egg cartons. That's always a good thing....
Lot of work but it looks useful.