Bought An Old Molo, But Not What I Expected?

[great white]

My 10f came without a MOLO so I grabbed one off ebay.

It was beat up, but the price reflected it (ie: cheap). I wasn't worried about the condition as I'm after the information, not to look pretty on my shelf. I have plans to laminate the beat up covers and re-spine it so now worries there. It will stand up to dirty hands/glove in the shop better that way anyways.

I read the couple documents about MOLO's on the forum, but it seems I didn't get what I expected.

I did get exactly what the seller listed it as, so it's my misunderstanding somewhere.

It's definitely an "Atlas" MOLO, written right on the front. "clausing corporation" on the inside title page. The cover is grey in color. It say's 26th edition, which I though was 1971. The reprint date also stops at 1971 on the same page.

Now, I was pretty sure I understood that one would have the 10F additions and metric threading being a later edition. But when I flip to the threading chapter, I only see general thread cutting info, cutting on a 12" (QC and non QC) lathe and cutting on a 6" lathe.

The metric info is no big deal. The supplements are easily downloaded, printed and inserted into the book.

But is this particular book just for 12 and 6" lathes? Seems odd to cover a 12" and a 6" but not a 10".

Did I misunderstand the documents in the downloads?

I know the info is all mostly applicable to my 10F, but is there something I should or should not apply to my lathe form this version?

I'm just a little thrown off since it mentions a 6" and a 12", but not a 10"....

Anyone know exactly what I've got on my hands here?

Or better yet: what should I print off to include in the book for when I re-spine it?

We've got the little "finger machine" at work, so adding pages is no problem, not is getting a bigger "finger spine" to hold more pages....

 

[great white]

Here's some pics if it helps:









Also, I don't understand the "V2" type thing guys refer to on the forum (other than it stands for "version" in some capacity) so please don't use it unless you want to quantify it by an understandable metric like year or something similar. It won't really mean anything to me and I actually find it a bit confusing....

 

[Gunner]

Through the years of Atlas lathe and MOLO production, Atlas for the most part kept the MOLO current with the lathes being sold that year. Perhaps unfortunately, they did that by replacement instead of addition. You bought a copy of V9, which directly covers the final version of the 12". Plus has 6" threading charts. If you go back and look at the version selection chart, you will see that the best editions for the 10F without QCGB are 1937V2 (plus loose 10F Threading Supplement), 1937V4, or 1955V6. If you read through the MOLO History document, you will see that almost all reference to the 10" was removed and replaced by late 12" material at V8.

I just noticed a typo in the paragraph on V8. The sentence "The remainder of the manual is initially the same as in the previous 1955V5 and 1955V." should read "The remainder of the manual is initially the same as in the previous 1955V6 and 1955V7. Unfortunately, I can no longer correct it on here.

Robert D

 

[great white]

So if I just print off a 10F threading supplement and drop it in the manual the rest of the info is still good for the 10 F?

I'm no expert on the atlas, but isn't the 12" essentially a little "taller" 10F? Which would mean the rest of the MOLO I have should be good enough?

Charts and tables are obviously still good....

 

[great white]

I think I've answered my own question.

I downloaded a PDF copy of the 10F supplement, cleaned it up in acrobat (removed messiness and imposed watermarks that were not original), I'll size it to the MOLO I have and print it off.

I'll laminate the covers to prevent further deterioration and then re-bind it all together with the spine tool at work.

That should make a decent MOLO copy with the information I need.

 

[great white]

After another look and comparing the MOLO in my hands to an earlier copy I found on the net, I've determined that there's enough differences/omissions in part 8 (lathe attachments) that I'm just going to reprint the entire section 7 and insert it when I do the re-spine.

 

[pdentrem]

Do you have 2 of 96 tooth change gears or does your set stop at 64? The reason I ask is that my 10D had the 96s while the newer 10Fs did not. You can use the 12 Standard Change gear chart if you do not have the 96s and do have the stud gear (16/32 compound gear) that is behind the 32 tooth spindle gear. I had a 10D and the same MOLO as well and I used the charts in it without any issues after I added the stud gear. I still had the original thread chart that was riveted to the inside of the change gear cover.
Pierre

 

[great white]

double post

 

[great white]

Do you have 2 of 96 tooth change gears or does your set stop at 64? The reason I ask is that my 10D had the 96s while the newer 10Fs did not. You can use the 12 Standard Change gear chart if you do not have the 96s and do have the stud gear (16/32 compound gear) that is behind the 32 tooth spindle gear. I had a 10D and the same MOLO as well and I used the charts in it without any issues after I added the stud gear. I still had the original thread chart that was riveted to the inside of the change gear cover.
Pierre

I can't recall.

I don't think I have the 96's.....will have to check.

Edit: just squeezed into the shop (full of stuff from my boat right now). My gear train stops at 64.

 

[pdentrem]

At least your boat is not covered in ice like the car across the lake from me is. Even tonight the local station did a stand up beside it for the 5pm news boardcast.
Saturday evening I was cooking pork chops on the barbecue in a shirt and tonight just forget it!
Pierre