Auto Woes

A few weeks ago, my Dodge Grand Caravan started becoming finicky about starting. The problem seems to be the ignition switch. The scuttlebutt is that the dealer repair will be over $1K. I am able to start it by jiggling the key fob while tuning between the off and start positions but it is disconcerting in that with cold weather approaching, I could be left stranded with no way to start the car. Older versions used a mechanical switch with a printed circuit used for the contacts. The contact surface would become worn , dirty, or corroded causing the failure. It appears that the newer style, used in my vehicle, has no contacts and may be using Hall effect switches instead.

To add to the issue, removal of the ignition switch, known as a WIN or wireless ignition node, requires removal of the entire dash to gain access to the mounting screws, no doubt the reason for the high repair cost. Several You Tubers have posted videos of how it can be done with a partial loosening of the dash which looks feasible.

To further complicate matters, you can't buy a replacement module as the module has to be programmed to the key fobs, aka FOBIK's, and the to the on board computer by a MOPAR dealer. There are repair services offered where you send your module and key fobs and for $150 to $300, they will repair the module and return it plug and play. The issue is the vehicle is disable for about two weeks while this takes place and if you are wrong about the diagnosis and it lies elsewhere, you are out a minimum of over $100 plus the wait time and could still have to pay a visit to the dealer. AARGH :bang head: :bang head:
is the switch situ fixed?
Here's what I did on Honey's old Seville a few years ago. It may or may not match up with your problem.
On the Seville the would activate to the 'ON' position but not start the poor old beast. Switch is in the dash, not on the column, & it's coded.
We made a trip to PaP for me to test my mad mechanic skills on a donor. Did not go well.
Very difficult to replace.
Came home, after picking up a stater button/switch at AZ, and I sorta hot wired it.
Put the switch under the seat. It's not convenient but it got me around have to replace the dash switch on it.
So if yours will at least work in the on position it might be a solution.
 
is the switch situ fixed?
Here's what I did on Honey's old Seville a few years ago. It may or may not match up with your problem.
On the Seville the would activate to the 'ON' position but not start the poor old beast. Switch is in the dash, not on the column, & it's coded.
We made a trip to PaP for me to test my mad mechanic skills on a donor. Did not go well.
Very difficult to replace.
Came home, after picking up a stater button/switch at AZ, and I sorta hot wired it.
Put the switch under the seat. It's not convenient but it got me around have to replace the dash switch on it.
So if yours will at least work in the on position it might be a solution.
Thanks for the reply and the suggestion Dan.

It appears that the problem is related to cold weather. It first appeared when the temperature dropped and last week, when we had overnight temps in the sixties again, it started every time. The next day, when the overnight was in the thirties, it took several tries to start. Once it starts, it seems to start on every subsequent try. The are several repair services available where you can send the WIN module in and the price is reasonable.

I had thought about hot wiring but I looked under the hood and can't even see the starter. I watched a YouTube video on replacing the starter and it appears that I have to pull the engine mount to even see it. I'll have to go down under to see if I can trace the wiring back to the topside. It would be good for a backup solution.

Back when I was driving GM products, I would buy the GM service manual for the vehicle. I used to have a subscription to a service called All Data when I switched to Mopar but the subscription is now $200/month.
 
Thanks for the reply and the suggestion Dan.

It appears that the problem is related to cold weather. It first appeared when the temperature dropped and last week, when we had overnight temps in the sixties again, it started every time. The next day, when the overnight was in the thirties, it took several tries to start. Once it starts, it seems to start on every subsequent try. The are several repair services available where you can send the WIN module in and the price is reasonable.

I had thought about hot wiring but I looked under the hood and can't even see the starter. I watched a YouTube video on replacing the starter and it appears that I have to pull the engine mount to even see it. I'll have to go down under to see if I can trace the wiring back to the topside. It would be good for a backup solution.

Back when I was driving GM products, I would buy the GM service manual for the vehicle. I used to have a subscription to a service called All Data when I switched to Mopar but the subscription is now $200/month.
So now you have to relocate to someplace warm?
 
So now you have to relocate to someplace warm? Actually, I found the solenoid relay and it is readily accessible. I ordered a couple of spare relays and I will pull the cover and wire a momentary contact switch across the contacts. If I can't start the vehicle in the normal way, I can pull the OEM relate and replace it with my modified relay for an emergency start. The relays will arrive tomorrow so I can test it out. :mechanic:
 
Sounds like a solid plan if it works. Trust you’ll be available when the workaround is needed?

Asking as a married man….

John
 
Sounds like a solid plan if it works. Trust you’ll be available when the workaround is needed?

Asking as a married man….

John
The van is my ride and I have both keys. It is my boat towing, lumber hauling rig, My wife has only driven it a few times in the past eight years. She doesn't like driving it. However, if there ever was a need for her to use the workaround, she will be aware of the process.

Hopefully, I will have the problem properly solved shortly. I am just waiting for the end of the boat towing season to execute and that may have ended as of yesterday.
 
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THAT sounds a lot easier than what I did.
Manually activating the relay does turn the starter but the engine doesn't start so presumably, the ignition and/or the fuel injection aren't energized. his is with the ignition switch in the on position. There is an off chance that with the switch in the start position, those circuits are separate from the starter circuit and still functioning.
 
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