Atlas V36 rebuild

[jwmay]

I had thought that my tailstock was missing it’s little clamp bolt things, because it wouldn’t lock. Lo and behold, all the parts were there. Just mashed and malformed. It took a “slide puller” (made up term) for a threaded rod and nut, to remove the bottom portion.

 

[wa5cab]

"Slide Puller" or "Slide Hammer Puller" is a valid term. I have one made by OTC that has saved my bacon several times.

 

[jwmay]

Well here’s my semi permanent solution to missing a pin and spring from the reverse gearbox lever. I had these little springy things. I don’t know what they are, or where they came from. But I have them. I drilled a 1/4-20 brass bolt to accept the spring, and viola. I’d like to make a little half ball to go on the end that bears against the detent. For now, I’m calling the lever done.

 

[wa5cab]

Well, to paraphrase an old saying, "if it works, don't fix it".

 

[jwmay]

Here’s my version of Ironman's add on bearing material. I used a product called Gorilla Weld. It’s stable to 300 degrees, which I assume means that if I decide it wasn’t a good idea later, I can remove it then with heat. I milled them about .0015 high, as best I can tell. I’m thinking this would be a nice little easy “scraping” primer. Also they’re made of soft brass, which many people say not to use. Only time will tell.

 

[jwmay]

Here’s a half finished criss slide dial. It’s been sitting in a cubby hole for several years. I made it (or tried) back then, but kept it when I parted out the lathe I made it for. I’ll re-machine it for this one. This is more of a fit up type picture. I don’t think I’ll get to Bernard’s modification until I’ve made certain I’m happy with other parts of this project.

 

[jwmay]

Today I put some of the repainted belt guards back together, made some brass plugs to go under set screws bearing on the spindle and installed them, then masked and painted a brand badge on the belt guard. No progress on the cross slide dial or custom carriage bearing plates.

 

[wa5cab]

Actually, unless you know already that you are going to change the larger spindle bearing cone, I'm not sure those are really necessary on the spindle. Unlike the case where some dufus taps the cone pulley oil hole through, because of the different diameters involved, the only part that has to come off of the spindle over where the set screws grip is in each case the part that the set screw is holding.

 

[jwmay]

I suppose I'm the type that wears a belt and suspenders. All those spots already had imprints on the spindle from set screws, and I dressed them when I had it out. While I'm sure you're right, I don't think it'll hurt anything to have them. Here's a question for you. I've been "testing" the carriage somewhat. Running it up and down the ways with the carriage hand wheel. The rack gear is steel, so I'm assuming it's a replacement part. Or am I wrong on that? Next question is that I can feel noticeable gear interference between gear and rack. I'm sure this is going to cause issues with finish on the work. Any ideas for a good strategy to address it? Right now, I'm thinking this is going to be a job for a very small file, and many iterations of removing/reinstalling the carriage to check for interference. That is not on my agenda. Ideas? And just in case it's on your mind, this gear interference was experienced before the additional bearing plates were added as well. Actually I have an idea I'll try. I have that other Atlas lathe bed with rack. I'll stick this carriage on that one, and see if there's any difference in how the gear mates up. But I'm still interested to hear your thoughts on the matter.

 

[Bill_729]

Would it be difficult to move the rack from your 2nd lathe to the one you are working on? It seems like you could learn a lot in hurry.

Bill_729