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- Nov 14, 2014
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Atlas Refurb and Tooling
- Thread starter Jamiethesquid
- Start date
- Joined
- May 20, 2014
- Messages
- 191
Jamie, this may interest you. Piston type qctp with 2 extra holders on special sale:
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/weekly_special.php
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/weekly_special.php
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2011
- Messages
- 10,552
Jamie,
No. I have no idea when your machine was made. AFAIK, you never posted the serial number. The 101.21400 was sold from late 1957 through late 1972. I was just telling you that it did not appear in the Power Tools catalog dated 1957. And that the next Power Tools catalog printed was the one ID'd as 1959/60. The lathe did appear in the Fall 1957 Big Book. So that dates its beginning.
You need to understand some of the in's and out's of catalog dating. Generally, the catalogs for a single year were printed between June and September of the previous year and were typically being distributed before Christmas of the print year. So the 1957 Power Tools catalog would have come out in late 1956. The dual year marked ones were usually printed in the late Winter or Spring and were out around June of the earlier of the two years that they were marked for. So at the time that the 1957 catalog was printed , the 101.07301 was still the current 6" model. Why Sears didn't publish a 1958 Power Tools catalog, probably no one knows.
If you can post the serial number, I'll give you a rough idea of when it was made.
Robert D.
No. I have no idea when your machine was made. AFAIK, you never posted the serial number. The 101.21400 was sold from late 1957 through late 1972. I was just telling you that it did not appear in the Power Tools catalog dated 1957. And that the next Power Tools catalog printed was the one ID'd as 1959/60. The lathe did appear in the Fall 1957 Big Book. So that dates its beginning.
You need to understand some of the in's and out's of catalog dating. Generally, the catalogs for a single year were printed between June and September of the previous year and were typically being distributed before Christmas of the print year. So the 1957 Power Tools catalog would have come out in late 1956. The dual year marked ones were usually printed in the late Winter or Spring and were out around June of the earlier of the two years that they were marked for. So at the time that the 1957 catalog was printed , the 101.07301 was still the current 6" model. Why Sears didn't publish a 1958 Power Tools catalog, probably no one knows.
If you can post the serial number, I'll give you a rough idea of when it was made.
Robert D.
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2014
- Messages
- 103
Sorry Robert, I posted in the other thread about Craftsman Build dates the serial number is 000450. Thanks again for all the great info! I am Learning so much. The model number on the 3 jaw chuck is 101.21407 does that mean it came off a different model machine?
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2011
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- 10,552
Jamie,
OK. Don't know how I missed putting your machine into the database. Especially as that is the lowest serial number I've seen. Assuming for lack of any better information that serial number 00001 was made 10/01/1957, yours was probably made between then and Christmas 1957.
On the 3-jaw chuck, no. The chuck was not included in 101.21400. You had to buy it separately. And for that matter, the few accessories that did come with the machine (like the 1MT dead center) also had Sears part numbers because Sears also sold them separately. The exception to this rule is that for repair parts of any end use item (like the lathe or the chuck), Sears used the Atlas part numbers.
Robert D.
OK. Don't know how I missed putting your machine into the database. Especially as that is the lowest serial number I've seen. Assuming for lack of any better information that serial number 00001 was made 10/01/1957, yours was probably made between then and Christmas 1957.
On the 3-jaw chuck, no. The chuck was not included in 101.21400. You had to buy it separately. And for that matter, the few accessories that did come with the machine (like the 1MT dead center) also had Sears part numbers because Sears also sold them separately. The exception to this rule is that for repair parts of any end use item (like the lathe or the chuck), Sears used the Atlas part numbers.
Robert D.
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2014
- Messages
- 103
Robert, thanks for the catalogs. I was just looking a the 1957 catalog and the 99 D M2140 on page 1440 appears to be the exact lathe that I have. Does that jive with what you were thinking. It has the same model number in the 1959 catalog.
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- Dec 25, 2011
- Messages
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Yes. They are the same model, 101.21400. At some point after the end of WW-II, Sears catalog and model numbering procedures changed. The first examples that I know of are in the 1951 Power Tools catalogs but I don't know that they didn't make the change earlier. It just happens that the first new Atlas lathe models to appear since before WW-II appeared in 1951 with the 101.27430 and 101.27440. The first four of the five-digit model number are the same as the four digits on the end of the catalog number. -27430 crosses to -2743, -27440 to -2744 and -21400 to -2140. This was not true with the earlier 6" and 12" models. The catalog numbers prior to 1951 give no clue as to what the model numbers are. This cost me a lot of time figuring out the intro year of the twelve early 12" lathes. For example, the 101.07403 12", built from 1940 to 1957, has catalog numbers ending in -2073, -2075, -2077 and -2079, depending upon bed length.
I sent you the 6" lathe page out of the Fall, 1957 Big Book because it shows the first appearance in any Sears catalog of the 101.21400 6" lathe. And is how I am able to say without too much fear of being wrong that your machine was probably built at the end of 1957.
Robert D.
I sent you the 6" lathe page out of the Fall, 1957 Big Book because it shows the first appearance in any Sears catalog of the 101.21400 6" lathe. And is how I am able to say without too much fear of being wrong that your machine was probably built at the end of 1957.
Robert D.
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2014
- Messages
- 103
Tonight I treated the two bases of the lathe to a hot soapy bath in the sink with some Blue Dawn and a green scotch brite. This was just to remove the initial layers of dust and grease in preparation for prep and painting. Around the edges where the pain was chipped and there was already some surface rust the paint started to peel further. I rinsed and dried them and went back down to my shop. A gentle scrape with a scraper and paint was flying off the castings. So I decided to slather them with soy stripper and go have dinner.
After dinner I scraped most of the loosened paint with a West Systems epoxy speader plastic popsicle stick thing and then returned to the sink for another hot rinse and scrub with a small stainless brush. 5 minutes later they were bare castings. I promptly put them in my Evapo rust bath to neutralize any surface rust and prevent flash rust until I can prime them on tuesday with an etching primer.
So It appears that contrary to my earlier statement, I will be stripping all of the castings before painting. My only concern with that is the already partially obliterated Timken decal and removing the label plates and emblems. Does anyone have a good graphic or picture of the timken badge. I could recreate and put back on. As far as the Label plates and gear chart, any advice on removal and replacement. I have removed them in the past on other projects and I usually ground off the rivet heads with a dremel and then drilled and tapped small screws. But I am open to any and all suggestions. I will get the required software loaded on the computer tuesday and upload some new pictures.
Jamie
After dinner I scraped most of the loosened paint with a West Systems epoxy speader plastic popsicle stick thing and then returned to the sink for another hot rinse and scrub with a small stainless brush. 5 minutes later they were bare castings. I promptly put them in my Evapo rust bath to neutralize any surface rust and prevent flash rust until I can prime them on tuesday with an etching primer.
So It appears that contrary to my earlier statement, I will be stripping all of the castings before painting. My only concern with that is the already partially obliterated Timken decal and removing the label plates and emblems. Does anyone have a good graphic or picture of the timken badge. I could recreate and put back on. As far as the Label plates and gear chart, any advice on removal and replacement. I have removed them in the past on other projects and I usually ground off the rivet heads with a dremel and then drilled and tapped small screws. But I am open to any and all suggestions. I will get the required software loaded on the computer tuesday and upload some new pictures.
Jamie
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2014
- Messages
- 103
Looking for a source of SAE 10 oil and the various cutting / tapping fluids that I will need for running my lathes once I am set up. Any recommendations for a good source where I can buy in small quantities and not have to purchase by the gallon or the case. Thanks
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2011
- Messages
- 10,552
Jamie,
When Atlas didn't use slotted pan head self tapping screw to attach various plates (as on the QCGB's), they usually used round head drive screws. The holes are usually drilled through. Look at the back side of where the plates are mounted for holes. If you find them, drive the screws out with an appropriate size pin punch. The screws are reusable, so don't blast them into LEO.
On the Timken decal, I have two. One has the words "tapered roller" to left ("tapered") and right ("roller") of the drawing of the bearing. The other one does not. They are about 2.45" wide. When I got them some years back, I only had a B&W printer and saved and forgot them until your post prompted a dim memory. Our current machine is a Xerox 7855 and does color. And somewhere I have some decal sheets (if I can find them). If you aren't already set up to print decals, I might be.
Robert D.
When Atlas didn't use slotted pan head self tapping screw to attach various plates (as on the QCGB's), they usually used round head drive screws. The holes are usually drilled through. Look at the back side of where the plates are mounted for holes. If you find them, drive the screws out with an appropriate size pin punch. The screws are reusable, so don't blast them into LEO.
On the Timken decal, I have two. One has the words "tapered roller" to left ("tapered") and right ("roller") of the drawing of the bearing. The other one does not. They are about 2.45" wide. When I got them some years back, I only had a B&W printer and saved and forgot them until your post prompted a dim memory. Our current machine is a Xerox 7855 and does color. And somewhere I have some decal sheets (if I can find them). If you aren't already set up to print decals, I might be.
Robert D.