Atlas mill home at last

When you starting painting, get a small touch up paint roller kit from Home Depot ( $3 or $4 dollars ) use your brush in tight places and where you can use the roller. This will not leave brush marks and will look good on your milling machine.
 
as far as the advice to use oil on your mt-taper, it is not a good idea--at least get a spindle drive nut like the one I sent a picture of in reply #91 on page 4 or 5. then if your arbor doesn't have the two drive slots--just grind them in. then you won't have to worry about your taper spinning and won't have to over-tighten your draw bar. *most arbors have the drive slots on them. Dave
 
So I probably should have stated in my last post, there was no screw wedged in there like the first guy thought....ugh. The way it was finally removed was this, the gear and bearing at the rear of the spindle was removed which wasn’t easy because there was a sheared off set screw there. Then it was a simple matter to get the spindle out of the front, finally the arbor was forced out on a shop press. Also thank you Restorer, you gave me a lot of good info in your recent post, but I will be replacing those bearings. I don’t want to have to go back in there anytime soon LOL. And a big thanks to everyone who was cheering for me!! I still have a little more paint stripping to do on the head and there are a few other smaller parts which are being stubborn.I will post some more of those pictures tomorrow, as a side note I have been so busy with the rest of the mill I had almost forgotten about the motor. I finally got around to plugging it in today and to my great relief it works fine, just needs some cleaning and fresh paint.
 
I will check and tell you the Timken bearing number you need for your mill. I still have the empty boxes from when I did mine out in the shop.

- - - Updated - - -

Dave Smith said:
as far as the advice to use oil on your mt-taper, it is not a good idea--at least get a spindle drive nut like the one I sent a picture of in reply #91 on page 4 or 5. then if your arbor doesn't have the two drive slots--just grind them in. then you won't have to worry about your taper spinning and won't have to over-tighten your draw bar. *most arbors have the drive slots on them. Dave
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I had an extra so I sent him one of those drive nuts you were speaking of.
 
Yes Uncle Buck, please send me those bearing numbers and let me know if you bought your bearings from a parts supplier or from a store like autozone. Thanks all.
 
robert1352 said:
Yes Uncle Buck, please send me those bearing numbers and let me know if you bought your bearings from a parts supplier or from a store like autozone. Thanks all.
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I will get and share the bearing numbers tonight. I bought mine from a dedicated industrial bearing supplier local for me. I suppose a Napa or other such could also get any size bearings so long as you have the right number.
 
Has anyone here tried using Press-n-Peel Blue (PnP) toner transfer paper to create metal tags for your machines? The reason I ask is because if you look carefully at the pictures I have posted in this thread while disassembling my mill you will notice that I am missing the "change - o - matic tag". The tags I do still have are not in the best of shape.Any thoughts on this process would be greatly appreciated.Thank you.
 
robert1352 said:
Has anyone here tried using Press-n-Peel Blue (PnP) toner transfer paper to create metal tags for your machines? The reason I ask is because if you look carefully at the pictures I have posted in this thread while disassembling my mill you will notice that I am missing the "change - o - matic tag". The tags I do still have are not in the best of shape.Any thoughts on this process would be greatly appreciated.Thank you.
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Never heard of the stuff myself.
 
Sorry I have not posted in a while. I have been busy with other obligations. Well after reviewing what I have done so far I think I am at the point where I can start thinking about painting. My first question would be about brush vs. spray. There really are not a whole lot of parts to this machine, not like a full size Bridgeport so I was wondering if I should use some rattle can spay paint and primer, or should I go with a brush paint job? Also any suggestions about color and primer would be greatly appreciated.
 
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