Atlas mill home at last

Besides a machine shop look for a small auto shop on lawnmower shop thay will have a press and might be cheaper. As for paint I have been using rustolium hammer coat paint Black witch is a dark gray. Of corse color is up to you. Unless your restoring it for show original color isn't nessary.
 
robert1352 said:
I agree with you Iron Man, I think that guy just didnt want to be bothered with it. Like I said there is another shop near by that I will take it to early this week and let them have a look at it. There is not too much left to do paint stripping wise, so I was wondering what everyone thinks would be a good color for the new paint job? Should I get something off the shelf or try to get it back to the original color? Also, from what I have been reading on this site and a few others it seems like using a brush might work out better than spray paint,any thoughts?
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I use blue painter tape for the areas you don't want painted and a razor blade to trim.
 
So after my second trip to the machine shop I finally got the arbor free frome the spindle. I got the rest of the head apart and started stripping off the paint.Various gears are soaking in mineral sprits to help get off the grease and sludge. Good news is I dont see any broken teeth,but there does seem to be some rust. The arbor took quite a beating,I will probably just buy a new one.

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It probably has seen its better days but it is repairable anyway it is good to see you got it out of there.. Ray
 
Great! So what finally got it apart? Also, there was no screw was there? Also, if that is a 1" arbor that would be the best to have as there are a lot more 1" cutters out there in the 1" size than the other sizes.
 
that was quite the challenge for you, and it should be very rewarding to know how many of us were cheering for you to get it removed. good accomplishment. Dave
 
Since the bearings are now exposed cleanliness is of the utmost importance.

Soak the spindle assembly in Lacquer Thinner and remove any trace of dirt rust and sludge. Keep any type of abrasive well away from the bearing. Never use a Scotch pad to clean they contain abrasives.

I would procure (3) aluminum foil cook pans from your local market and a gallon of Lacquer thinner. First pan COURSE clean, next is medium clean, the last is final clean prior to assembly. New pans and fluid each step.

Soak in #1 for several days submerged. Take out and blow off with compressed air. Then into #2 clean pan clean fluid ( and cover) to soak until nearly ready for assembly.

Thoroughly clean the outer races in the main casting and associated oil cups etc.
Mask very well prior to painting the main casting.

When ready for assembly again clean the outer races after removing masking. Wipe races with oil. Remove the spindle from bath #2 and blow off with compressed air.

Next into clean bath #3. Add a little OIL or transmission fluid to the bath. After a brief soak remove and place on a stack of 4 to 6 paper towels to air dry the solvent. The oil prevents rusting of the clean steel.

Reassemble and generously lubricate the Timkin Bearings, back gear bearings, gears with grease, and the oil hole in the cone pulley.

Torque the preload nut to specification for the spindle. This is very important for continued life of the bearings.

Enjoy a wonderful machine!

NOW to Prevent a re-occurrence of the problem (can you tell I have been their?)

When assembling the arbor to the spindle, apply OIL to the MT#2!!! .....
Make a knock out bar that is a solid bar slip fit thru the spindle. Use the knock out bar not the draw bolt to remove the arbor.

Have fun you have earned it !!! ...
 
FINALLY the last big problem now history,

Now the rest is easy and is very rewarding!
 
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