Atlas/Craftsman Serial Numbers and Bearing Dates (if applicable) For Database Entries

[wa5cab]

OK. I didn't know whether you knew what a compound drive was. It is an Atlas 954, which is a 9x36. From the splayed feet, it dates from 1932 to 1934. I'll post a catalog photo and some text in the thread that you started.

 

[ArborRing]

I hadn't previously noticed it probably because looking back I see that almost all age related questions the past year have been for 12". In the combined machine database (408 entries to date) there are only 74 10" entries, a third of which show no serial numbers. And there is a large jump or blank range in the 10" serial numbers. They meander up to a little over 8000 and then skip to over 17000. Plus we only have three supposed bearing dates, one of which does not track with the other two. Meaning that it is about 13000 smaller than one with almost the same date.

Anyway, anyone with a 10" who doesn't remember for sure entering your machine into the old Yahoo database or giving it to me recently, please send me the model number (which includes bed length), serial number (including any prefix or suffix letters), type (10F, 10D, etc.), and if it has Timken bearings, the bearing dates if you know them. If no bearing dates, then anything that would give the original purchase date (no guesses, please).

Thanks, Robert D.

I have just joined and trust a quick addition to your Atlas data will be appropriate. I have just found a H54 SN: 051391 has fallen into the back of my Van. Its history and condition are as yet to be determined. Only tidbit thus far suggests it was used for black powder rifle boring at some time in is life. I have not opened it up yet but suspect it has original Babbit bearings. Here is the Name Plate. I am looking forward to working with all of you in refurbishing this American Iron.
Thanks,
ArborRing

 

[RHD]

I hadn't previously noticed it probably because looking back I see that almost all age related questions the past year have been for 12". In the combined machine database (408 entries to date) there are only 74 10" entries, a third of which show no serial numbers. And there is a large jump or blank range in the 10" serial numbers. They meander up to a little over 8000 and then skip to over 17000. Plus we only have three supposed bearing dates, one of which does not track with the other two. Meaning that it is about 13000 smaller than one with almost the same date.

Anyway, anyone with a 10" who doesn't remember for sure entering your machine into the old Yahoo database or giving it to me recently, please send me the model number (which includes bed length), serial number (including any prefix or suffix letters), type (10F, 10D, etc.), and if it has Timken bearings, the bearing dates if you know them. If no bearing dates, then anything that would give the original purchase date (no guesses, please).

Thanks, Robert D.

Robert
I have recently received my grand father's lathe that he bought new in the late 40's.I was investigating a bump in the spindle, and decided to pull the spindle to replace a frayed belt. the rear bearing looked no worse for wear, but the front bearing had broken its cage in a couple of places and fell apart as it came out. The front bearing was marked 11/16/44 and the rear was marked 1/26/45. I have included a picture of the data plate, this is a 10" machine. I hope this info will help. I am new here and really enjoy the sharing of information, as it makes this place feel like home. Thanks for all you do.
Bob
Unfortunately the photo is upside down and i don't know how to change it.
View attachment 128586

 

[wa5cab]

Well, that worked - sorta. Just ignore the elephant in the room.

I think that yours may be the first post I've seen either here or on Yahoo (other than due to rust or corrosion) where the reported condition of either spindle bearing was such that it clearly needed to be replaced. Did any bits of metal come out with the bearing that might not have belonged to the cage?

The vertical countershaft is relatively rare on 10F models. And in fact was discontinued between the time your machine was built and when the 1947 catalog came out. Do you have the factory cast iron leg stand with it?

 

[RHD]

Well, that worked - sorta. Just ignore the elephant in the room.

I think that yours may be the first post I've seen either here or on Yahoo (other than due to rust or corrosion) where the reported condition of either spindle bearing was such that it clearly needed to be replaced. Did any bits of metal come out with the bearing that might not have belonged to the cage?

The vertical countershaft is relatively rare on 10F models. And in fact was discontinued between the time your machine was built and when the 1947 catalog came out. Do you have the factory cast iron leg stand with it?

Well, that worked - sorta. Just ignore the elephant in the room.

I think that yours may be the first post I've seen either here or on Yahoo (other than due to rust or corrosion) where the reported condition of either spindle bearing was such that it clearly needed to be replaced. Did any bits of metal come out with the bearing that might not have belonged to the cage?

The vertical countershaft is relatively rare on 10F models. And in fact was discontinued between the time your machine was built and when the 1947 catalog came out. Do you have the factory cast iron leg stand with it?

The bearing looked in reasonably good shape. The cage had broken and released the rollers. I must admit I was tempted to TIG the cage back together and drive on but my OCD would not allow that. the spindle was clean and only had a few signs that the set screws had been tightened in one other position. I did not find anything that would lead me to believe the bearing was about to fail. When my Grand Father bought the machine as I understand money was tight and he built a stout work bench to set the machine on, so sadly he didn't purchasethe stand. Presently I have it set up on a large desk and am thinking of building a suitable stand. My Smithy Granite is Next to it on its Steel desk, so I have a wall of lathes in my small shop.
Bob

 

[wa5cab]

OK. No telling why it broke, then. I agree with not trying to fix it. That I would consider false economy.

The reason (or at least one reason) that I asked about the factory stand is that I have wondered how the motor is mounted (officially) on a 10" with vertical countershaft. In all of the dozens of Atlas catalogs I have, I don't think there is even one photo of a rear view of a lathe. It was only this year that someone posted photos showing how it was done with the horizontal countershaft. The one and only drawing Clausing still has pertaining to the floor stands is of the wood top board.for the 10".

 

[RHD]

I can post some pictures when i get a chance to go out to the shop. We have been working 12/14 hour days since the 20th of April and I haven't had the energy to go out there lately. I did order the new bearings from Motion Industries today, but I didn't spec a class 3 bearing as they are stupid expensive. I will try to get out there in the next few days as we are back up and running, and only working 10 hr days this week.
Bob

 

[wa5cab]

So long as they are Timken, the consensus seems to be that unmarked should be fine today. Plus if you go to the Timken site and are able to locate what they say about bearing classes, you will see that they claim not to sell anything worse than Class 3, anyway. They actually use letters, C, B, A and AA, where C = ABMA Class 3. They don't list a C;ass equivalent to 2 or 4.

 

[RHD]

So long as they are Timken, the consensus seems to be that unmarked should be fine today. Plus if you go to the Timken site and are able to locate what they say about bearing classes, you will see that they claim not to sell anything worse than Class 3, anyway. They actually use letters, C, B, A and AA, where C = ABMA Class 3. They don't list a C;ass equivalent to 2 or 4.

The bearings made it in and I managed to escape today and tomorrow. after I cleaned up all the parts i reassembled the head stock, only to realize that the new belt was still laying with the counter shaft. After much nashing of teeth and words your mother spanked you for I took it back apart, and put the belt in its proper place. Other than that it went back very smoothly. Let it run in for a while and am pleased with the results. I took some photos of the motor mounts from different angles, if there is any thing else you would like to see, i'll try to get it.


and as usual they are upside down....wont say what i'm thinking.

 

[wa5cab]

Maybe your camera thinks that you live in Australia. Your initials do stand for Right Hand Drive, right?