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Atlas/Craftsman 12x36" lathe...questions
- Thread starter Jason280
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2011
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- 10,552
Unfortunately, the 101.240 manual doesn't include any instructions on how to assemble it - only info on how to install it on a lathe. If you look at the illustrated parts list, you will see that on the left end of the hollow shaft is a circlip. Then a gear. Then a "shims" and then the collar and set screw. I would assume that the shims are to properly position the gear so that it fully meshes with the gear driving it. Then would come the hole through the right end of the GB, and outside that the collar. One would expect that the collar would be positioned next to the outside wall of the GB, with perhaps 0.005" running clearance. But not a quarter inch away from the wall. I will try to find time to call Clausing tomorrow and see whether or not they have any factory assembly instructions.
In the meantime, you still need to get the lead screw out of the GB. The reason for positioning the keyway at 12 o'clock was so that the penetrating oil could stand against the key inside the hollow shaft. It might help if you lift the right leg of the lathe about an inch and set it on something for a spacer - such as a piece of 1x4. And then squirt some more penetrating oil in there.
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2011
- Messages
- 10,552
On motors, I tend to be partial to Grainger, probably because their Houston store is less than 5 miles away and the nearest Tractor Supply is about 25 miles away. But their prices are probably comparable. You want a 56 frame (and not a 56C). Beyond that, they offer at least three brands. Prices ranged from a low of $163 to a high of over $500. In general, open drip proof with no thermal protection are cheapest. TEFC (Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled) with Manual reset thermal protection are the most expensive. However, as lathes are infamous for throwing swarf (metal shavings or dust) into places where you don't want it, I would pay more and get a TEFC even though it will cost more. If this were something like a cutoff saw, I would recommend you also pay extra for manual thermal protection, as they are quite often started on a job and then you go do something else while they cut. In fact, last year I had to buy a new motor for my saw because it jammed and burned up before the 30 amp circuit breaker finally tripped. But on a lathe, mill or drill press, you either can't or shouldn't ever walk off and leave it running. The motor on my Atlas 3996 happens to have a manual breaker but in going on 39 years, it has never tripped. So I would say that a thermal breaker isn't worth paying more for on a lathe. The only reason I have one with a breaker is that's what was on the machine when I bought it.
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2019
- Messages
- 64
If you don't mind a bit of work and wizardry, you could do a treadmill motor conversion.
I looked through a few FB marketplace ads, and found a cheap treadmill for sale...but wasn't really convinced the motor would be big enough. I guess I need to do a little more research.
My tailstock still hasn't come in, may end up having to use the original for now. Not sure where it actually is, its been listed in Atlanta now since 4/23. I suspect either the label has been damaged and can't be read, or it wasn't packaged well enough. I get a lot of things through the mail, and some shippers can be hit or miss when it comes to properly packaging an item (especially something heavy).
Other than that, really haven't been able to do much with the lathe. I was able to finally get the QCGB into the "E" detent, but still can't get the leadscrew out. I'll likely end up pulling the apron, which I really don't want to do, but doesn't look like I have a choice.
My tailstock still hasn't come in, may end up having to use the original for now. Not sure where it actually is, its been listed in Atlanta now since 4/23. I suspect either the label has been damaged and can't be read, or it wasn't packaged well enough. I get a lot of things through the mail, and some shippers can be hit or miss when it comes to properly packaging an item (especially something heavy).
Other than that, really haven't been able to do much with the lathe. I was able to finally get the QCGB into the "E" detent, but still can't get the leadscrew out. I'll likely end up pulling the apron, which I really don't want to do, but doesn't look like I have a choice.
I actually have a couple different slide-hammer pullers, but not sure I'd feel comfortable pulling too hard...something is definitely holding it in place, it will probably make more sense once I pull the QCGB with the lead screw.