Atlas 7B Disassembly and Teardown! Pic Heavy!

More progress!

Here's the small boss I made for the housing.

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Just mild steel, finish is kinda rough. There's a small ledge to interface with the face of the other part.

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In order for the boss to fit the housing I had to open up the hole to accept the boss. Holding this thing in the lathe was a trip. It's amazing what a 4 jaw chuck can do! I actually had to grab it from the inside. That's a first for me.

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Here's how I indicated it off the old hole. Got it to within 0.001". After this I also indicated the face to ensure perpendicularity. Got that less close, maybe within 0.005". Should be good enough.

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Turing nice and slow I drilled the hole out up to 1" then followed with a small boring tool to about 1.050" which is what the boss was made to.

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Very nice fit! Zero slop.

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A look at the underside. The original cast part had a counter bore as such so I replicated it as best I could.

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I then welded it on. As with the larger ring I wanted to minimize distortion so I went hot and fast and only put 4 small welds. I don't think this part gets super high stress so it should be alright. If it cracks in the future it'll be easy to fix. Another benefit over the old Zamak part.

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Here's the new one next to the old one. Looks pretty similar!

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The last step is to account for the mounting hardware. The original had 2 holes per side, one for a screw and one for a dowel pin. I'm thinking of welding a small block of steel to each side then just drill/tap as needed. Should work out I hope.

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It's nearing the finish line! My goal is to throw chips over the Christmas holiday. I'll have some time off of work and I want to get this thing fully operational.
 
Damn fine work! One thing to consider. Welding blocks in there might distort the flatness of the part. You might consider brazing with silver solder. I probably would have brazed in that boss also but it looks great.
Robert
 
Never got any notifications lately, do you still need the picture of the motor wiring?
On the conduit, I used some stainless AN hose, and just striped out the hose part and just used the outer stainless shield. I looks nice and was pretty easy to push the wire though.

P.S. Send-Cut-Send moved to a new way bigger location, purchased another laser and also does bending now.
Lastly, nice job on the case.
 
Do you mean AN brainded hose thats used in the automotive industry? If thats the case I have some of that but wasn't aware that the hose could be removed from the braided outer portion.
Never got any notifications lately, do you still need the picture of the motor wiring?
On the conduit, I used some stainless AN hose, and just striped out the hose part and just used the outer stainless shield. I looks nice and was pretty easy to push the wire though.

P.S. Send-Cut-Send moved to a new way bigger location, purchased another laser and also does bending now.
Lastly, nice job on the case.
 
Do you mean AN brainded hose thats used in the automotive industry? If thats the case I have some of that but wasn't aware that the hose could be removed from the braided outer portion.
Yes, but the one I used is for fuel injection, that had the nylon inner, so it was easy to remove.
 
Well, I couldn't leave well enough alone. I'd been thinking about this part for a few days and I realized my logic may have been flawed when I thought if the boss would wasn't strong enough it would be easy to repair in the future. Why not just make it so it's strong enough for certain?

So I added some gussets similar to the original.

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If I were thinking, I would have added the gussets from the beginning in the cardinal directions, but since I put my stitch welds north south east and west I opted to place the gussets in an offset manner between the cardinal points.

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I suspect this will be completely resistant to failure, within reason.
 
That ain't breaking in a hurry. Like it.
 
Thanks. Yea I think this is a better solution. Even a full circumference weld wouldn't've been as strong as gussets.
 
I think the original part had gussets to make up for the fact it was made of stinky cheese. The coaxial load on that part is basically zero. I'm sure the stitch welds would have been more than enough, so I have zero concerns with it now!
 
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