Atlas 10F-28 purchase questions?

The miter gear that runs on the lead screw was original cast with a square key in it's bore. This key has been variously reported as either worn off or sheared off. One of the ways that have been proposed or tried was to bore out the remnants of the old key, drill a row of holes, and insert a row of pins. The downside of doing it this way is twofold. First, until the pins wear s little bit, the surface area of the pins actually in contact with the side of the lead screw groove is only a line. So you would expect rapid initial wear. Second, the protrusion of the pins into the bore of the gear is rather critical. As much of the pin as possible should be in the groove. But it is critical that the pin not touch the bottom of the groove.So I couldn't recommend this method.
 
I agree on the use of pins. I'll probably think on it a while before deciding how to go about it. The power cross feed is not necessary right now, so I'm in no hurry to come up with a solution.

Bob
 
That is unfortunately a common problem. Last that I heard, Clausing still had the gear, but it wasn't cheap. There have been a number of reported repair methods, most involving boring the remainder of the worn key out and then broaching a key slot in the gear and drilling and tapping two screw holes. Or various methods of gluing or brazing the key into the slot. Unfortunately, you can't just put the key in loose as it will very quickly walk out of the gear and cause other damage as it falls into something trying to turn. And there is no economical way to cut either a Woodruff key slot or a square key slot that doesn't extend out the ends of the gear.

I just bought that gear a few weeks ago so i could have a replacement to use while doing a home repair on the one currently in the lathe. (It still has a sliver of key left). It was pricey but the transaction was so easy with Clausing I thought it was worth it. Memory is a little dim since I ordered a few other gears too but around 100 bucks I think.
 
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