Atlas 10F-28 purchase questions?

From the beginning circa 1932 up until about 1957, all Atlas machines were painted (or close to) Dark Machinery Gray. Some time in 1957, they changed to just Machinery Gray, which is lighter. Prior to 1957, the ones that Sears sold had been just about every basic color you can name except yellow, orange (one year at least some of them were gold), purple and gray. From 1957 to 1981 they were painted Machinery Gray, same as the Atlas badged ones.
 
OK. I corrected the .0015 in your earlier post. And OK on the paint color.
 
I set mine as per the Atlas instructions, i.e. light drag on spindle rotating by hand(bare spindle fitted with thrust take up components only, don't need to eliminate end float, just minimal clearance)
It turns freely with 2/3 fingers until you get down to more or less correct clearance, as soon as it requires more pressure applied to rotate the spindle it's measurin' time.
Using the lift test(bar through the spindle, dial indicator set vertical above/below spindle) I ended up with .0015" clearance when well oiled, .002" after a few days of sitting idle, not getting fed any more oil.
From memory I settled on 20ft pound for normal operation, 15 for hi speeds. I'll double check, tension wrench should still be set.
Too little clearance is bad, spindle will get hot, expand.....
 
OK. Sounds as though the machine should be usable. At least as far as the spindle is concerned.
 
Yes, useable for now. Right now I'm slowly taking it apart cleaning the dried up grease of and painting. The only issue I've found is the miter gear that fits on the lead screw, the spline/key the fits into the slot in the lead screw is worn out. I can get by without it, but will find another so the machine is complete. Carriage is all painted and I'll put it together today. Then it's on to the tailstock and then work my way to the other end. Doing if a little at a time since its summer and I have a lot going on.

Bob
 
That is unfortunately a common problem. Last that I heard, Clausing still had the gear, but it wasn't cheap. There have been a number of reported repair methods, most involving boring the remainder of the worn key out and then broaching a key slot in the gear and drilling and tapping two screw holes. Or various methods of gluing or brazing the key into the slot. Unfortunately, you can't just put the key in loose as it will very quickly walk out of the gear and cause other damage as it falls into something trying to turn. And there is no economical way to cut either a Woodruff key slot or a square key slot that doesn't extend out the ends of the gear.
 
You might try fixing the mitre gear. It does not have a keyway in it, there are little pins, I believe designed to break and bend if you crash the lathe. Drill small holes and drive tapered pins of the correct length into it.

I have a spare but I am not selling it because this is one of the first things to go if you crash the carriage.
 
I have a small mill and have thought about cleaning the bore out. Cutting a shallow recess and then drilling a tapping the gear and key together.

Just a thought though. It will take me probably to the end of the year to get it cleaned up and painted, then put back together. I still want to build a better bench or stand for it. Thinking about making a drip pan at work.

Bob
 
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