Arbors and Hole Saws for Tube Notching?

And a Lenox that I will try. Looks like a standard 3/8" shank.

lenox.PNG
 
Last edited:
If you want to cut holes at other than 90º, you will need to make a jug/fixture to do so. Angle iron would form a suitable cradle and a hginge and an adjustable brace would allow setting the desired angle. It should be well secured to minimize shifting and vibration. Cutting a hole at that angle will require a very rigid hole saw setup due to the extreme side forces at play.
 
You might consider a fine pitch roughing end mill and a swivel base for your vise if you plan to use the mill. An even faster way is a custom small wheel attachment on a belt sander - it will notch tubing in seconds.
 
RJSakowski said:
If you want to cut holes at other than 90º, you will need to make a jug/fixture to do so. Angle iron would form a suitable cradle and a hginge and an adjustable brace would allow setting the desired angle. It should be well secured to minimize shifting and vibration. Cutting a hole at that angle will require a very rigid hole saw setup due to the extreme side forces at play.
Click to expand...
This required rigidity is probably why the school used a Bridgeport knee type mill.

I will be making so many of these that it would be worth my time to make a fixture. That would be great if I didn't need to tilt the mill head so often.
 
mikey said:
You might consider a fine pitch roughing end mill and a swivel base for your vise if you plan to use the mill. An even faster way is a custom small wheel attachment on a belt sander - it will notch tubing in seconds.
Click to expand...
My vise does have a swivel base, but I am not seeing how to use the swivel base to cut a 60 degree notch.

The benefit of a mill for mitering tubing for bicycle frames is that you end up with such a great fit up. The goal is a 0.1mm gap.
 
Here is a 1 1/4" roughing end mill. I would have to see if I have an R8 collet large enough for that.

snip3.PNG
 
This muffler tubing is CREW (Cold Rolled Electronically Welded). I will also be mitering 4130 chromoly between .020" and .050", Grade 2 Ti no thicker than .040", and aluminum (alloy and wall thickness TBD).

Definitely need to have the feeds and speeds dialed with as much rigidity as possible.
 
If you plan to do a lot of cuts at odd angles then a 3-way tilting vise might be worth buying. They are expensive but will hold the work very securely for use with a milling cutter. Wilton makes one and I'm sure there is a cheaper import out there, too.

At these prices, I would seriously consider a 2 X 72 belt sander with small wheel attachment. It would be an extremely useful tool for a fabricator to own. This will give you and idea of what I mean.
 
mikey said:
If you plan to do a lot of cuts at odd angles then a 3-way tilting vise might be worth buying. They are expensive but will hold the work very securely for use with a milling cutter. Wilton makes one and I'm sure there is a cheaper import out there, too.

At these prices, I would seriously consider a 2 X 72 belt sander with small wheel attachment. It would be an extremely useful tool for a fabricator to own. This will give you and idea of what I mean.
Click to expand...
Wow, that tube notching belt sander in the video was making quick work of that tubing!

I had not even realized that they made tilting vises. After buying the mill and lathe and paying for school, I will be out of money for the next year; also, my garage is stuffed.

What is the argument against tilting the mill head? Maybe a PM-25MV isn't rigid enough? I am about to find out.

vise.PNG
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top