Arbors and Hole Saws for Tube Notching?

Using hole saws without two safety pins/lock pins, or whatever it is called can be dangerous because they can spin out of the hoder and you got sawed!
 
I wouldn't recommend using a hole saw with a keyless chuck. The chucks are only rated to their opening dia, a hole saw will over tighten it to the point you'll need a pipe wrench to open it. Don't ask how I know.
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I recently learned this myself...;)
 
I designed and built two tube frame cars from scratch (www.midlana.com and www.kimini.com) using the typical tube notcher and hole saws. It worked fine, but was messy, the cutters are not intended for use on curves surfaces, and quality control was only "meh." That last bit means that the hole saw usually wobbles or has some offset. As a result, the end product isn't as precise as it could be—but the reality is that it usually doesn't matter due to all the other variables involved. The only real issue is the course pitch of the teeth; if someone started making fine-pitch hole saws, there's probably enough business that it would be viable.
 
kb58 said:
I designed and built two tube frame cars from scratch (www.midlana.com and www.kimini.com) using the typical tube notcher and hole saws. It worked fine, but was messy, the cutters are not intended for use on curves surfaces, and quality control was only "meh." That last bit means that the hole saw usually wobbles or has some offset. As a result, the end product isn't as precise as it could be—but the reality is that it usually doesn't matter due to all the other variables involved. The only real issue is the course pitch of the teeth; if someone started making fine-pitch hole saws, there's probably enough business that it would be viable.
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I found 10TPI (teeth per inch) from a company called RockHardToolz. I bought two bimetal hole saws in 1 1/4” diameter.

MSC and a cursory Google search only turned up 4-6TPI, most of which were variable pitch.

I also bought three different 3/4” shank hole saw arbors which was all that the internet seemed to offer. I will post pictures of them when they arrive.

When I was in bicycle frame building school, I thought that there might be a consumer demand for thin tubing cut at a 60° angle for people to practice TIG welding. When these miters are cut on a mill, you have to clean/fit them up with a hand file and Emery cloth. The muffler tubing is cheap enough; maybe somebody could do this as a side gig.
 
machPete99 said:
do not use the locking pins, as they allow the cutter to wobble around and it will cut oversize. You want an arbor that screws in tight.
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I stopped using the pins on the hole saws in the mill or drill press and have found them much better on both.

Getting them off is sometimes fun :)
I vice up the arbour and use metal "sticks" in the slots in the walls of the cutter.

Stu
 
I have used bimetal hole saws for heaps of angle and off set cutting in steel when I was building recumbent bikes.
This wall and some thicker square tube.
Sometimes using just the power hand drill and sometimes the drill press.
Occasionally it cut oversize but then I just filled the gap with weld.
Most of the time it worked with no problems.
I've also used giles tube mitre program and cut the tubes and filed by hand.
rorty.net

Tube Miter Program by Giles Puckett | Rorty

A tube mitering program for Windows to print on any printer. This program deals in metric units.
rorty.net rorty.net
 
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