Anybody have a good (cheap) source for mini-lathe (7x12 Vevor in my case) Cross Slide Gib Screws?

I generally keep a set of Allen wrenches by my lathe - metric. And regular metric wrenches, since my lathes are metric. Whenever I have to use my 3 Aloris tool holders, I have to stop and think - oh yeah, these are imperial, then go get the imperial Allen wrenches. It disturbs the work flow, which can cause a cascade of errors later. The other dozen tool holders are metric. Basically my point is mixing measurement systems causes far more mistakes than you'd imagine, primarily by workflow disruption. Of course, if you have a perfect mind of a perfectly programmed robot, then you won't run into this problem (maybe). I have neither a perfect mind, nor am I a perfectly programmed robot, so I need all the help I can get. Not mixing systems (unless essential) is simply a trick I use to minimize problems. Mixing imperial allens on metric sockets is NOT a good thing, they have a sloppy fit and will wallow out. The proper fitting key is needed for grub screw longevity, especially for low grade steel used in Vevor set screws.
 
markba633csi said:
Not an issue for me- guess I'm not a purist
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No purist here either, but I do find it aggravating to have a mix of imperial and metric fasteners on the same machine. The worst was in the 1980's when GM was switching from imperial to metric. They did it by component. The interiors and trim were the first to switch. Then came the body and frame fasteners, and finally the drive line components.

It was a PITA to try to determine what style and size fastener was used since all but the drive train was done as a running change. No definition as to which serial number had which style fasteners. It wasn't uncommon to have a vehicle with all metric fasteners on the interior and trim yet have imperial fasteners on the engine, transmission and differential.
 
projectnut said:
No purist here either, but I do find it aggravating to have a mix of imperial and metric fasteners on the same machine. The worst was in the 1980's when GM was switching from imperial to metric. They did it by component. The interiors and trim were the first to switch. Then came the body and frame fasteners, and finally the drive line components.

It was a PITA to try to determine what style and size fastener was used since all but the drive train was done as a running change. No definition as to which serial number had which style fasteners. It wasn't uncommon to have a vehicle with all metric fasteners on the interior and trim yet have imperial fasteners on the engine, transmission and differential.
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This is the PITA I'm trying to avoid as much as possible in the shop. I don't mind working in either system really, but mixing is something that can cause you to make mistakes. When I draw in CAD I use metric dimensions, as it is easier. But I live in the real world here in the USA and buy imperial stock simply because it is often much cheaper than metric stock. I just account for it in the design process. Figuring out tool offsets on the fly, or just what stupid tool to use so I can change something to make it easier to machine can throw you off just enough that it breaks your concentration, which is an unnecessary interruption. It's the breaks in concentration, i.e. a disruption of work flow that messes you up.

The years that there were mixed systems in automobiles definitely was a PIA. Had to drag out two full sets of tools to get things done, vs. one. Then you also had to wonder - is this a crappy fastener and worn, or is it imperial or metric? Great fun, NOT.
 
Growley Monster said:
I have over the last couple of years managed to break several gib screws on my Vevor. I have been shuffling the intact ones around as needed, using vise grips and ratchet straps and miscellaneous tiny screws, and it is time to fix this right with a whole new batch of screws. I am really terrible at turning threads that small, so I won't even try to make them, especially since my tool post practically waves in the breeze due to lack of gib screws. I figured they would be all over Amazoom and Fleabay but no such luck. LMS always seems like the most expensive place to get tiny parts due to shipping costs. I don't do Ali Baba Express. Hey, I'll do what I gotta do, but I just thought I would ask on here first in case somebody has hit the gibscrew motherlode or knows of a gib screw tree at the Big Rock Candy Mountain.
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Go to Aliexpress on the web. You can buy an assortment of all the sizes small up to 6mm in various lengths for about 10 bucks including shipping. Buy a metric set of cap screws for another 10 bucks. You will never need to look again.
 
Supergleep said:
Here you go, $10.85 on Amazon. Full assortment of metric grub screws, should cover all your gib adjustment needs on a mini-lathe.

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Or, https://www.amazon.com/Rustark-450Pcs-Socket-Assortment-Internal/dp/B07QFVRS77

Same thing, Same item.Everything after the item number of the url can usually be left off, for a much shorter link.

Anyway I got my supply dialed in. Several years' supply, I am guessing, but thanks for replying!
 
Instead of using grub screws locked-down by nuts, you may want to consider using so-called "nylok" grub screws. They stay in place w/o having to use an allen wrench + a box wrench when locking them down. I've got them on my 7x12.

Larger-sized nylok grub screws can be DIY'd (using string-trimmer line) but it wouldn't be all that easy for the small ones. I wouldn't try it w/o a mill, though.
 
Growley Monster said:
I have over the last couple of years managed to break several gib screws on my Vevor. I have been shuffling the intact ones around as needed, using vise grips and ratchet straps and miscellaneous tiny screws, and it is time to fix this right with a whole new batch of screws. I am really terrible at turning threads that small, so I won't even try to make them, especially since my tool post practically waves in the breeze due to lack of gib screws. I figured they would be all over Amazoom and Fleabay but no such luck. LMS always seems like the most expensive place to get tiny parts due to shipping costs. I don't do Ali Baba Express. Hey, I'll do what I gotta do, but I just thought I would ask on here first in case somebody has hit the gibscrew motherlode or knows of a gib screw tree at the Big Rock Candy Mountain.
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McMaster Carr, they are not cheep and they do not sell cheep stuff, I have bought many of this type item from them, only issue is you have to buy a bag of them.
 
homebrewed said:
Instead of using grub screws locked-down by nuts, you may want to consider using so-called "nylok" grub screws. They stay in place w/o having to use an allen wrench + a box wrench when locking them down. I've got them on my 7x12.

Larger-sized nylok grub screws can be DIY'd (using string-trimmer line) but it wouldn't be all that easy for the small ones. I wouldn't try it w/o a mill, though.
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Well, that is certainly a new one on me, never heard of them before now, only nylock nuts...

That said, I prefer to stick to time-honored practice of locking the grub-screws with a nut. Saves any messing about and I know it will not back out on me. Heck, even with nylock nuts I still use threadlock!
 
Another common way to secure them where a nut can’t be used ( like on a pulley or gear hub) is to use 2 sort set screws. The first one locks the pulley to the shaft. The second one is screwed tight against the first locking it in place.
 
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