Another Pm1340gt Build

Finished the second side table and tailstock tooling caddie. It swivels around the end of the lathe and tucks out of the way when not in use.

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What's holding up the caddy? I really like the trick of using short tubing cutoffs to make tray pockets.

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The caddie is held up by a piece of 1" cold rolled bar stock that was mitre cut and turned down to 5/8" that fits into the bronze socket shown in the first picture above. The bronze socket was pressed into the mounting arm for the side table. Here are a few more pics that should tell the whole story.
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Now you can build jib crane to mount in the box channel to load heavy work or change chucks. Extremely nice job , be proud of it. Thanks for sharing it .
 
Thanks for posting this thread - this and the build that inspired it are the reason I have a PM-1340GT somewhere in a truck with my name on it right now.

One question I have for people who have built these - how do you level the lathe to the stand in the event the top plates (or the bottom of the lathe, for that matter) are not perfectly flat to each other? If you bolted the lathe down to a stand like this and it caused a twist in the bed, I don't see how you'd ever adjust it out.

The leveling feet will obviously level the stand to the floor, but I'm nervous my stand won't end up totally flat and will induce a twist in the lathe when I bolt it down.

Or maybe you guys are just better fabricators than me and can build the stand flat enough to not matter?
 
This is a very good question. Obviously you try to keep things as square as possible during fabrication but there is no way to make the stand 100% flat and square on all planes. For me once I set the lathe on the stand I went through the leveling process and found I had one corner that was low. I had some .015" brass shim stock that cut to fit under the front side of the foot on the tailstock end.

After that I was able to quickly level the lathe. This is how may cabinet mounted lathes are leveled like older South Bends etc.

Here is the most important tip, you do need to seal the feet and bolt holes to keep the oil out, just don't do so until you determine if and where you have to shim.

I really have enjoyed the stand. It has allowed more storage and the receivers on the end have allowed a lot customization that I wouldn't have with a stock stand. Additionally I think it adds rigidity and have not noticed any vibration that others had noted at certain rpm's.


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Well during the rainstorm preceding the recent flood here in Houston I was able finish my spindle spider project I have been pecking at. It is based upon the design that MKSJ shared with me. He also posted a thread on his build with a drawing and photos that are very helpful.

I used my newly acquired super indexer to drill and tap the holes in the spider.

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I had some 1" store bought brass tip set screws but they were not quite long enough so I made my own per Marks instructions. I made them with a step and a press fit to the shoulder. I don't think the tips are coming out.

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I have two small boring heads but neither was big enough to have the reach for boring out the hole in the gear cover. I gave up on that and ended up utilizing a die grinder with a carbide burr to open it up, then finished with a 2" 80 grit flap wheel. I carefully worked to a scribed line and the hole really turned out well. You couldn't tell that it wasn't bored on the mill. The only issue was the burr I used seemed to clog up with the cast iron cover material which necessitated stopping to clean out the burr at multiple intervals, slowing the process considerably. It was a fun project and now my tach magnet is no longer taped to the spindle!
 
REAL nice, excellent, and real good! Turned out top shelf - congrats.

I like it. Thanks for the idea on the knurled brass for lock nuts.
 
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