Hey I resemble that remark!
I finally got around to leveling and aligning the lathe. The only thing left is installation of the Igaging DRO for the tailstock. For those who have installed one, can the scales be cut without damaging the instrument? It's a little long and looks like it will need a few inches trimmed off so it doesn't tangle with the hand wheel.
Wow! Man you have my head spinning around. I simply have to fabricate the stand - cool beyond belief brother. The tailstock DRO is another mod I want to do on my 1340GT. It's such a great machine, it deserves the makeover. Thank you for posting this.Thanks Dan. The markings are light on mine as well. I haven't used a tailstock DRO before today, but it was real nice. Definitely a recommended upgrade if you don't have one.
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I am not sure if the PM1340GT has a 220-110-24V transformer in it, but my lathe does. It uses 110V for control power for all the front panel switches, and 24V for the light. It would be easy to wire the transformer to provide power for the DRO if it could not accept 220V.
btw, if you are going to power a 110V pro by "wiring it into 1 leg of the incoming power", then you need to have a neutral power lead coming into your machine (which no lathe will be set up as by default; they are set up as two hot and ground). While ground + hot = 110V, this is a severe violation of code, and a really, really bad idea, since it results in current flow in uninsulated ground leads.
Beautiful job on the DRO installation. Does it save any z-axis room by installing the scale upside down instead of on its side? That is the DRO I am going to install on my lathe once I get done with the 15 or so projects I have partly finished.
I have a slightly different handle on my lathe, and my compound clears it. It takes about 2" of clearance above the compound. I really like these handles (mcmaster sells them). My compound looks like it is a bit wider than yours, which might help.