Another obligatory New PM-833TV and PM-1340GT Ordered!

So here we are today. I wish I knew how to use Fusion 360. It would be a lot easier to print plans and go for it, but I am just piecing this together by whichever way the wind takes me. I now have a functional quill stop, and will have to fabricate the final piece. A magnetic DRO encoder mount that is slightly adjustable in 2 axis so I can finish up my project. I have learned a lot about the limits of my machine, troubleshooting, cutters and their behaviors, feeds, speeds, and Koolmist. Lastly, measuring is sometimes hard when working in 3 dimensions, and my eyes are **** in close range.

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Christianstark said:
So here we are today. I wish I knew how to use Fusion 360. It would be a lot easier to print plans and go for it, but I am just piecing this together by whichever way the wind takes me. I now have a functional quill stop, and will have to fabricate the final piece. A magnetic DRO encoder mount that is slightly adjustable in 2 axis so I can finish up my project. I have learned a lot about the limits of my machine, troubleshooting, cutters and their behaviors, feeds, speeds, and Koolmist. Lastly, measuring is sometimes hard when working in 3 dimensions, and my eyes are **** in close range.
Click to expand...
Send me a hand drawn sketch with dimension notations and I’ll model it up in F360 and create a 2D drawing package based on the model.
 
davidpbest said:
Send me a hand drawn sketch with dimension notations and I’ll model it up in F360 and create a 2D drawing package based on the model.
Click to expand...

I may just take you up on that someday. :)


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Next small project was to replace the janky, and awkward DRO mount from the provided parts that came in the universal install kit, to a monolithic block machined bespoke to my install. Not only is it a cleaner and stronger install, but it is also more compact, and allows better access to my Z gib locks.

Before
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After
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Question for the more experienced. I am replacing the X leaf screw nut on my 833TV. From factory, the adjustment screw was winched down as far as it would go, so no more tweaking can be done to adjust backlash.

I received the new nut, but the inner bore and acme tapped area is rough. Seems like thousands of very time burrs. The machining itself is sound. Should I install it and let use lap it smooth, or should I lap it prior with some high grit # sandpaper to smooth it out?

Thoughts?
 
Decided to just install it. Backlash is hugely improved with the new nut. The bearings on both lead screw guides are a bit clunky in rotation feel so I may order new ones. Not sure what caused this. Maybe I over-tightened when I installed my power feed gear?I had to loosen the drive gear first time I installed it due to handle being hard to turn.
 
I was making some precision accessories for my rotary table today, and after some unexpected results, I made a test bar and found in cutting a 14 thou taper over 12 inches. Sweeping my 3 jaw chuck with a DTI shows me my head is out of alignment. Looks like I have some tuning to do.
 
That seems a long ways out. Good luck getting it lined up in short order.
 
Christianstark said:
I was making some precision accessories for my rotary table today, and after some unexpected results, I made a test bar and found in cutting a 14 thou taper over 12 inches. Sweeping my 3 jaw chuck with a DTI shows me my head is out of alignment. Looks like I have some tuning to do.
Click to expand...
If you want to borrow my MT5 precision alignment arbor, I'm agreeable if you pay postage both directions.
https://flic.kr/p/ST9RUG
 
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