Almost ready to cut

Maybe you know this, but a 3 jaw self centering chuck is usually off a few thousands. It is not going to be perfectly centered so if you take the part out to turn it around and put it back in the chuck, if you mark it and the chuck first you can put it back lining up the marks so that it is closest to the center it can be in that same chuck and position.
 
oh the confusion has set in and a bit overwhelmed at getting a method to check my set up is square.

Simply trying to make sure things are true before cutting as mentioned that the lathe needs to be square and level to avoid cutting a taper on all the crap I am going to make. Not trying to make this difficult, just never done it before and you all keep giving me a crap load of different things to adjust.

Whats the proper set up and checking procedure before making your first cuts on a brand new lathe?
 
jdedmon91 said:
Old trick I learned years ago. Mark #1 jaw on your 3 jaw. Then make an alignment mark on on the part in line with with the chuck mark on #1. This will give you runout corespondent with the chuck


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It's c;lose but not perfect. I do that as well and also if I need to pull a part for checking fit.
 
1st time lathe user, 1st set up and trying to find out what checks before 1st cuts and maybe a procedure on checking my 1st cuts to see that all is ok with the setup of the lathe.
 
Creativechipper said:
1st time lathe user, 1st set up and trying to find out what checks before 1st cuts and maybe a procedure on checking my 1st cuts to see that all is ok with the setup of the lathe.
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In order. 1 clean up completely. 2 make sure you have the correct fluids in the machine headstock carriage and way oils 3 make sure everything is tight 4 level the machine especially across the bed to prevent twist 5 connect power to the machine and check the proper function of all controls. 6 center tools and make test cuts.

That is my recommendation. When you make the light test cuts that will show up any loose spindle bearings or such in a used machine.

Then if everything seems ok the you can check chuck runout and taper when turning between centers.

First of all you want to know if everything functions before seeing what you have in things like runout


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Basically I have no adjustments for leveling the lathe, 2 holes at head stock and one hole at tail to bolt it down. It sits on a wooden bench with non adjustable legs. I thought I could shim with feeler gauges under the lathe but was advised to remove all shims under lathe.

Looks like a set of adjustable riser blocks would give me options on leveling but I dont know where to get some and have extremely limited tools to make stuff.

At this point I guess it will just have to be ok, I dont want to disassemble my engine hoist and return it until I know I dont have to jack the lathe up anymore. Big pain moving a hoist on tile through hallways and into my lathe room.
 
Hello Creativechipper,
 Yes it can be a bit daunting at first but you are in the right place. As jdedmon91 suggested a good clean and inspection and familiarize your self with what does what. Before getting carried away start with just leveling the lathe. The bed has to be level in two planes, longitudinal and across the bed. The idea is to eliminate twist. Your lathe could be nailed to the wall and still cut straight if the bed is level. That carpenters level is not accurate enough,(I like your laser idea, that definitely needs further investigation),for the moment watch the video at this link:
Getting the lathe level should be all you need to do. The level does need to be checked occasionally as everything shifts with time.

Get it level, adjust as much backlash out as you can on the gibs and cross screw and start cutting. As you get familiar with the machine and find out more about its foibles you will be better able to make informed decisions about what if anything needs to be done/changed/modified.
 
Thanks, will do. The more measuring and practice turning the wheels and seeing exactly what happens is helping.
I have a small 1/4" cutter and to center in my qctp I needed to shim, is using a allen key/wrench ok to do?
I do have some 1/2" hss cutters that look much beefier than the indexable carbide 1/4" cutters. But being I am only taking a tiny cut to test should I use the carbide 1/4" or the hss 1/2"?
 
Hone the HSS tool, get it dead on center and do your tests. Trying to take micro-cuts with an inserted carbide tool and expecting accurate results is a lesson in frustration. The reason is quite simple; the nose radius will cause deflection at small depths of cut and you will not know how much is due to deflection and how much is your lathe level being off. Use the HSS tool.
 
CreativeChipper, I am where you are as well. I have spent the last 10 or so days, getting the right fluids, breaking in everything, oil change, leveling and leveling a bit more. Switching out tool post to a QCTP, checking that is correctly aligned after making t-nut. I went out and bought some 2.25" sq aluminum (by 4' as I have other projects) I AM NOW READY FOR THIS TEST SHAPE....FINALLY!! Researching what i need to do, I found This thread. So 10 plus days and a lot of checking and poking around, I'm ready (I also read "How to Run a Lathe") it has been a butt full of stuff to do and I have felt like an idiot, doesn't help i have a short attention span! you just want to make sure you're ready for the next step, if not you'll waste time and materials. Listen to these guys, the combined knowledge is staggering. I have found even after multiple questions and I am still confused (maybe even more than when I started) this group is patient and will work you through it.
do you have a machinist level, I believe it is a must have though I have seen overly complicated rigged up equipment to do the same. Watch that leveling video that Norton Dommi posted, it will clear some things up.
 
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