Thanks. Ordered one of those, so if there are no surprises I should be taken care of. The other suggestions have been educational, though.
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Advice on shaft coupling?
- Thread starter Frank O
- Start date
Thanks. Ordered one of those, so if there are no surprises I should be taken care of. The other suggestions have been educational, though.
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- Jan 31, 2016
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Hm …...wrong sleeve . A split sleeve allows one to use multiple shank size boring bars in one holder . Just one application . ( kinda like a collet for shafts)
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- Feb 1, 2015
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Each component is sold separately. As long as the hubs take the same spider, they are compatible.
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- Dec 20, 2012
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It should work well, Frank. It eliminates the need for precise alignment and the shock when power is applied to a non-moving object.
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- Feb 13, 2017
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Just to throw my quarters worth in here, it seems you have already solved the problem. I am old school in my thinking, like back to the pipe shop where I used to work. With overhead DC cranes, and home brew fittings and fixtures.
What comes to mind first thing were the bridge and rack motors on the cranes. A quick change coupling consisting of two plates, similar to a faceplate, one with 6 holes drilled in it and the other with 6 nubs(?). The nubs were made of phenolic in the machine shop and bolted in place~~~ Changing the motor took all of 10 minutes plus the time to rig a new motor and lower the old one. A lifetime in a hot(molten) metal production facility. This, of course, was for high horsepower(>5HP), high speed(>1000RPM) use.
Something similar for lower power, lower speed applications, with rubber or leather loops instead of nubs, might well do the job that you want. An old belt or a bicycle inner tube would be a starting point.
The flanges could be made with tin can covers riveted to a hub, or old pulleys with holes drilled for the straps. Best of all, the holes needn't line up too well. Four on each side, "more or less" across from each other is all that is required. Works good, last long time ~~~ Simpler is better in my book.
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What comes to mind first thing were the bridge and rack motors on the cranes. A quick change coupling consisting of two plates, similar to a faceplate, one with 6 holes drilled in it and the other with 6 nubs(?). The nubs were made of phenolic in the machine shop and bolted in place~~~ Changing the motor took all of 10 minutes plus the time to rig a new motor and lower the old one. A lifetime in a hot(molten) metal production facility. This, of course, was for high horsepower(>5HP), high speed(>1000RPM) use.
Something similar for lower power, lower speed applications, with rubber or leather loops instead of nubs, might well do the job that you want. An old belt or a bicycle inner tube would be a starting point.
The flanges could be made with tin can covers riveted to a hub, or old pulleys with holes drilled for the straps. Best of all, the holes needn't line up too well. Four on each side, "more or less" across from each other is all that is required. Works good, last long time ~~~ Simpler is better in my book.
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I was pretty clear on that part, not so much on how to make a split sleeve. Is the usual thing to start with tubing stock? Finding the right O.D. and I.D. seems like it might be a little tricky.
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- Jan 2, 2014
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- 9,351
Hi @Frank O ,
This situation really screams for a lathe......but perhaps your don't have one........yet.
I'd start with a round bar, face, centre drill, drill thru to the small diameter, then drill half way thru with the larger diameter.
If drilling isn't accurate enough, then drill under and ream to size.
A set-up like this: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...post-cross-drilling-fixture.49064/post-413645
would allow you to drill for the set-screws.
If you were just 'down the road' I would invite you over to make one.
Please let us know how it goes!
-brino
This situation really screams for a lathe......but perhaps your don't have one........yet.
I'd start with a round bar, face, centre drill, drill thru to the small diameter, then drill half way thru with the larger diameter.
If drilling isn't accurate enough, then drill under and ream to size.
A set-up like this: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...post-cross-drilling-fixture.49064/post-413645
would allow you to drill for the set-screws.
If you were just 'down the road' I would invite you over to make one.
Please let us know how it goes!
-brino
Thanks, brino. I do have a nice Sieg C6 equivalent (actually the lathe part of a Grizzly G0516 lathe-mill combo, with the mill part detached and off to a new life in someone else's shop a long time ago). I used to do more work on the lathe in the past, but lately have found I spend most of my time on the mill.
So I'm just curious. When I thought it through, it didn't seem to me that the coupling had to be cylindrical-shaped -- it could probably do just the same job if its shape is a 3D rectangle. Is there a functional downside to making it that way?
On the other hand, I have to say that your post is a good nudge to me to get out the cutting tools and refresh my skills on the lathe.
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- Jan 2, 2014
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No. It does not need to be cylindrical at this speed. (although I hate corners on any fast rotating thing.)
I guess I just picture my pile of bar stock and the steps to make it.
Some days it feels like I could make one faster than I could read this thread.
Whether that's correct or not....I like those days......
-brino
I was thinking about that too. If the motor was spinning faster, and especially if it was located anywhere near people, I wouldn't want any corners on the coupling. Given that it will be in a sealed box, and the motor will rotate back and forth, say, 90 degrees at any time over the course of 15 seconds, probably not to worry about.