Advice needed on moving a 1440 lathe with a crane.

[rabler]

Sounds like you have experience and know how to proceed. Generally the webs are overbuilt for rigidity so handling the machine weight isn't a concern. With an outdoor lift, no reason to not lift from two webs. I suspect the documentation is attempting to cover indoor and limited clearance situations.

 

[mksj]

On my previous 1340GT and current Sunmaster ERL-1340 I use a D-ring through the web with a plate on either side. I use a high tensile strength through bolt with extra thick washer on the bottom and double nuts. The carriage and tailstock are moved to the far end away from the headstock and locked into position. Remove the chuck and belt cover and use jacking straps through the spindle and through the web at the tailstock end to prevent tilting. I used a 5/8" 2T working load lifting ring on the 1340GT, current lathe I use a larger D-ring with 3/4" bolt. Issue is typically the headstock end is much heavier. Upper plate goes between the ways to prevent side to side shifting, lower plate is contoured to lock into the bottom of the web.

PM1340GT Lift Using a D-RIng and Old Base Cabinet Mods

There are various ways to lift the lathe, on the smaller lathes it usually involves some form of belting across the Bed or through the bed. The manual suggests two belts perpendicular to the bed with planks under the bed. When I originally put my lathe on the stands I used a 2 ton belt through...

www.hobby-machinist.com

 

[Winegrower]

I like to think about it via Young's modulus. However you lift it, it's going to bend. The question is will it stay in the elastic region? The Takisawa has two holes for rods, left and right, through the frame. It's pretty clear that the bending moment is acceptably low. Lifting only by one of the webs is probably OK given the manual says so (if you get the two hexagonal nuts right) and use the tailstock and carriage to balance everything. I admit to not knowing everything about your situation, but could this be a hammer and nail problem? If all you have is a 97' crane, it has to be lifted that way? What would the rest of us do?

I had no trouble with my lathe, about 2500 pounds, with an engine hoist. I could pick it off the trailer, move it around the shop and position it on some feet.

 

[Sticks]

... I admit to not knowing everything about your situation, but could this be a hammer and nail problem? If all you have is a 97' crane, it has to be lifted that way? What would the rest of us do?

I had no trouble with my lathe, about 2500 pounds, with an engine hoist. I could pick it off the trailer, move it around the shop and position it on some feet.

Lets try this approach. The lathe is being installed in a converted 53' moving trailer (like Mayflower) parked in a dirt and jobsite/laydown yard and plant site (concrete paving company).

Said trailer is a mobile machine and fabrication shop.

Said trailer is currently parked on a berm (level) and the large side door is only accessible by driving a rough terrain forklift down the bar ditch - not doing that with the lathe on the forks.

The Lathe will be unloaded on the east side of the trailer, uncrated and then the 50T crane with 45'-50' of stick extended out will then lift the lathe, swing it over the top of said trailer, and lower it to the rough terrain forklift to then insert into the side doors.

In order to move the trailer to eliminate the need for a crane, I would have to secure the Mill, CNC Plasma, Drill Press, Smithy 1326 (don't judge), 4 tool chests, and air compressor, unwire from the generator and power drop, unblock the front (leveling). Then I could hook up and pull it out of the slot where it is nose to tail with another trailer. 6 hours of work to do that, then another 6 to put it all back. Nope. Using the crane.


***ETA****

All of these other lathe moves is removing it from the stand. This one is all one piece. Full size 1 piece cast iron base. Ergo my nervous about picking it from the web in the bedways. That is asking a lot from the casting and the mounting to the base and headstock....that PM still has not replied to my query.

 

[Winegrower]

Ah, I feel a lot better now. Proceed and best wishes!

 

[coolidge]

I found this in a manual for a similar lathe that weighs 3300lbs.

 

[Canus]

I'd use the 30' slings in a double wrap basket with softeners.

 

[verbotenwhisky]

Taking delivery of my new PM 1440TL lathe next week.

I have to pick it up 20' in the air, swing it over a trailer, set on a rough terrain forklift, then insert into side doors of a trailer.

The manual is less than helpful with their crane moving instruction and I am a lot nervous doing a single point pick on a 2 ton $19k piece off equipment.

Suggestions and more specific info on where the pick is on the bedway.

Form the manual;

View attachment 500629

Just my 2 cents worth, "if it were me", and I planned to preform the lift you described, I would get/build a spreader bar with a single point up for lifting and 2 points down to connect the lifting straps to with appropriately certified lifting shackles and lift it from either end of the bed. By using a spreader you minimize the chance of the straps moving or being pulled back to the center under the lift point the best way to locate the lift point is to weigh the machine at either end and calculate the center of gravity then place the lifting point above it. Several companies sell adjustable spreaders known as load levelers for engine work but I personally would not trust these, I do not think they are rated high enough for the machines weight. Any how, that's my thoughts.

 

[mksj]

Not really very practical if lifting the lathe more than a few inches above the floor, I have seen the straps shift in particular with top heavy lathes. You want assistants hanging on as the lathe is lifted in the air....



Usual recommendation is a secured D-Ring near the headstock, otherwise a fork loft under the base if just for removing from the pallet or getting it into position. Too often I have seen people use skates under the corners, only to have one slip out and the lathe tumble over, same goes for blocks under the ways. Since the lathe base is one piece cast iron bolted to the ways, it is going to be about as rigid as one can get and even more rigid the closer to headstock.

CROSBY HR125 Hoist Ring WLL 7000 LB, 3/4-10 X 3.50 (1016946) Rigging Lifting | eBay

<p>The Crosby HR125 Hoist Ring is a rigging lifting product with a Working Load Limit of 7000 lb. It has a 3/4-10 X 3.50 size and is designed by the Crosby brand. The product is a hoist ring that can be used in various industrial applications.</p>

www.ebay.com

I had to do a similar lift with my knee mill to get it up a steep driveway onto a trailer when moving, over 30' up on the factory lifting ring. Never thought much about it until years later someone else asked me why would they have a 0.45T rated lifting ring for a 1T mill. Needless to say it got replaced, fortunately the the working load is something like 1/10 the the failure load.






Manual states:

 

[verbotenwhisky]

Not really very practical if lifting the lathe more than a few inches above the floor, I have seen the straps shift in particular with top heavy lathes. You want assistants hanging on as the lathe is lifted in the air....

View attachment 500683

Usual recommendation is a secured D-Ring near the headstock, otherwise a fork loft under the base if just for removing from the pallet or getting it into position. Too often I have seen people use skates under the corners, only to have one slip out and the lathe tumble over, same goes for blocks under the ways. Since the lathe base is one piece cast iron bolted to the ways, it is going to be about as rigid as one can get and even more rigid the closer to headstock.

CROSBY HR125 Hoist Ring WLL 7000 LB, 3/4-10 X 3.50 (1016946) Rigging Lifting | eBay

<p>The Crosby HR125 Hoist Ring is a rigging lifting product with a Working Load Limit of 7000 lb. It has a 3/4-10 X 3.50 size and is designed by the Crosby brand. The product is a hoist ring that can be used in various industrial applications.</p>

www.ebay.com

I had to do a similar lift with my knee mill to get it up a steep driveway onto a trailer when moving, over 30' up on the factory lifting ring. Never thought much about it until years later someone else asked me why would they have a 0.45T rated lifting ring for a 1T mill. Needless to say it got replaced, fortunately the the working load is something like 1/10 the the failure load.

View attachment 500686




Manual states:
View attachment 500684
View attachment 500685

What I described is how we move equipment far heavier and larger.