A Project Quest

Tony Wells said:
Hmm, Ken, use socket shoulder screws as pins, once the heads are turned down to below the pin diameter? Thread them into the bottom of the table. I like that. Let the rack float on the pins vertically but be held in place linearly. Might be a little unwieldy removing the table and realigning the pins coming back down, but there may be a slick solution to that too.
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That's pretty much what I suggested above in #93. I like the timing belt better, though.
 
With the proper covers, I don't necessarily see grit as a problem. I have seen grinders used for years without the need to tear apart and clean, but there were good covers on the table. just my opinion.
 
I have a little floor model Republic that has a belt drive. The small metal (Zamak I suspect) piece that links it to the table has broken from unknown causes. It came to me that way. It's on my "things to be fixed" list. The table runs on plain vee ways, as I recall. Haven't looked at it in a while.


John, you certainly did. I guess it didn't sink in at the time. Apologies.
 
Back on the manual movement, I used to run an Abrasive 1 1/2 grinder, pure manual, it had a large table wheel, somewhere between 18 and 24 inches in diameter. one rev of the wheel was more than the length of the magnet. If you were grinding something short, you positioned the wheel so that swinging it back and forth, handle at the bottom, a couple of inches would grind your work. So easy to move, When I changed jobs, lost the use of the 1 1/2, and had to hand crank a 6" wheel, it was a LOT of work, relatively speaking. If you can work out a large table wheel, it's almost as easy to grind as watching a motor driven table, and you pay more attention to the work.
I, too, am watching this project. I don't (yet) need a grinder, but might talk myself into one if this is doable.
 
Welcome all. My manners are slipping. With Mark and myself included there are 25 members on board. Very impressive. Time to start keeping a log. LOL Thank you, hope to be able to welcome many more.

"Billy G"
 
I think in regards to the issue 'lifting upon reverse." The wheel will be off the work when reversing takes place, the table/magnet/work will not 'float' but will come back down immediately. Also, backlash/slop is a non starter. It doesn't enter into consideration. The only place it might have an effect is if the head is jerky and the wheel drops unexpectedly after sticking. This can be overcome with a counterweight.
 
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Prints should start to be posted near the end of next week. We are getting close now.

Mark and I have decided, after looking at all the options, that the simplest for us is the Rack and Pinion. Thank you all for an interesting and enlightening conversation . Please continue the drive discussion if you need more or have more info. There is no set time to finish any discussion.

We are now exploring the movement itself. So far there are three options, #1 Plain V-ways, #2 Open linear bearings and 3 V-guide bearings. Any more suggestions out there. Don't be shy now, we will listen to all suggestions. There are many ways to do this and we don't know them all, so jump right in.

"Bill and Mark"
 
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What kind of linear bearing rails are in consideration? Fully supported round, or the more robust "track" type?

Something like a double inverted V way would be interesting.
 
Fully supported round Andre. My choice at this time is the inverted V track. I have bearings on the way, should be here Friday. Again, nothing is written in stone.

"Bill and Mark"
 
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